PARIS

Another dark grey day. Very Baudelairien....."When the sky is low and heavy and weighs like a lid......". We are used to cold and snow but at least we have blue skies in winter! I am going to brave the elements and go to the Orangerie, a short walk from here, to see the renovated museum with its massive Monets.

Here is a photo of last night's dinner. Can you see the tiny white chocolate circle on the raspberry tartelette (exquisite in all ways) - it has the initial R on it!!!!




Well, I had a lovely walk to the Orangerie, through the Tuileries....still the most beautiful public gardens that I have seen. Weather not as bad as it was two days ago when then was a nasty wind. It was quite manageable. Saw Monet's Nympheas in their newly renovated space....two adjoining oval rooms. Absolutely breathtaking. Very hard to take good photos sans flash, but here are some anyway.






Then took in the Paul Guillaume collection: Cezanne, Renoir, Picasso, Derain, Utrillo, Modigliani, Soutine and more. Guillaume was a dealer/collector whose wife left his entire collection to the state, supposedly in exchange for the dropping of a criminal suit...but who really knows???

Next, I looked at a delightful exhibit called "The model children" - i.e. portraits of artists' children. The exhibit included toys and furniture, not just paintings.







Lastly, I took a ride on the Grande Roue, Place de la Concorde, that is to say, a smaller version of the London Eye. Not exactly the best time to do it - too misty for photos - but why not. I was in a cabin with three delightful young American women, two from Boston. It was installed for the Millennium and was supposed to have been dismantled after one year. The owner refused and it stayed there for two years. Then it became a travelling show....all over the world. Now it is back for the holiday season- until January 18th.




Well, the Parisian chic was out in force today. I guess Saturday was shopping day for the plebs. Today the rich and skinny were everywhere loaded with lovely shopping bags from Longchamps, Cartier, Chanel, Gucci. The sales are wonderful: $1500 cashmere sweaters for $750.....you get the picture!!!!!

I had to try to keep the side up, so I put on a black suit, my black sequined top, my new suede boots (with heels!), spiked my hair and sallied forth, neither rich nor skinny, for Royal High Tea in the Bar Vendome. It was yummy: delicious sandwiches, scones with real clotted cream, lovely pastries, including my fave - gateau opera - and thick hot chocolate served with syrup Irene - honey with dark rum. Well, you know who couldn't resist that! And a glass of champagne. Later, I ordered a Bellini and lingered to drink in the ambiance and listen to the piano player.

Even at the Ritz, no one can smoke inside the bars or restaurants - smokers go outside onto the lovely terrace and sit under heaters, bundled in their big coats. Who'd a ever thunk it. No Gauloises in the cafe parisien!!

I'd really rather like to live at the Ritz. Eloise at the Plaza; Elaine at the Ritz. It has a nice ring to it. hahahahah. Seriously, I am very homesick and my bags are packed. This is my last post...I leave the hotel at 8am tomorrow. Can't wait to see you all.....and my beloved Bau!

PARIS

Yesterday, I woke up to snow and had my breakfast in the room, watching the flakes drift by. It did not amount to much, but it was too slippery for walking. I had planned to do a bit of shopping but thought better of it. So, I did not venture out until it was time to leave for the Comedie-Francaise….a ten-minute walk down the Rue Saint-Honore. By then, enough of the snow had melted that most sidewalks were clear. It was such a thrill to be there – finally – after all these years. There, in the foyer, was a statue of the great man himself, Moliere. In a glass case stands the chair Moliere was sitting in during his last performance, “Le Malade Imaginaire”; he took ill on stage, was taken off still sitting in the chair and died shortly afterward in the wings. The Comedie Francaise is known as "the house that Moliere built". Founded in 1680, it is the only state theatre with its own troupe of actors. The current building, also known as the Salle Richelieu, dates to 1799.

The performance of “L’Avare” (“The Miser”) was classic 17th century in every sense: costumes, décor, farce. It was pure Moliere in his message about avarice and about parental abuse of children’s rights and interference in their love life.

The actor who played the lead is one of France’s best-known and he was amazing…light on his feet and very acrobatic which added to the farcical elements. What a performance! There were 10 curtain calls…the spectators went wild! Since it was a Saturday matinee, the audience was filled with children, mainly accompanied by their grandparents. So heartwarming! They were all beautifully behaved. At one point, after Harpagon, the miser, has discovered the theft of his beloved money, he approached the front of the stage, spotlighted, and addressed the audience…”Who has seen my strongbox…who stole it?” Then he clambered over orchestra seats and accused various people, asking the audience – he was really addressing the children – if they knew who it was. “Is he here?” Yes, yelled the kids. This went on for a few minutes. It was quite extraordinary – more like an English pantomime….and not in Moliere’s script. It only added to the extraordinary atmosphere.

After the theatre, I got a taxi and went over to Jacques’ apartment, a good distance away in the 15th arrondissement – right across Paris, passing the Eiffel Tower, all lit up. Jacques had prepared a lovely supper – vegetable soup, lapin a la moutarde, cheese, salad and crème brulee. Le lapin:



We spent the evening poring over photo albums of cruises and books on maritime history (his hobby). His apartment is filled to the brim with books, photos, prints, souvenirs of all the cruises he has taken. He was smitten long before the first one he took – which was on the QE2, after that he was doomed!!!! We talked fondly of the “grande dame” and how she is surely the most beloved ship in history. Came time to return here and we could not get a taxi – impossible – so Jacques accompanied me home on the metro. We alighted at the Opera, so beautiful all lit up. From there is was a 5 minute walk to the hotel through the Place Vendome, also beautifully illuminated.



Even in the grey arctic weather, Paris, the City of Lights, manages to sparkle. The holiday lights and decorations are lovely. Parisians were out in droves yesterday for the January sales – bundled up like Eskimos – not much Parisian chic - 99% anoraks – 2 fur coats spotted!!!! As for the clientele here at the hotel - I am sure that, when I see someone in frayed jeans, Doc Martens and a nondescript jacket, I am looking at some famous person…but who? Not much chic here at all. But they wear their frayed clothes well!! Hahahah

Views from the Ritz of the Place Vendome:





Today I was to go to Brussels – trip had to be cancelled. The weather there is awful.... snow yesterday and more on the way….and trains are not reliable. Estelle cannot even get out of her house. Such a shame. We had tickets for a concert…..but I was so looking forward to seeing her. I think I caught a bit of a cold yesterday…and it is nasty outside, so I think I’ll stay “at home”. Maybe an outing tomorrow. Apparently, I am not the only one here with a cold staying in the room!

In the UK, people are comparing this winter to that of 1947 which brought misery to the country (I’ve just finished read about it in the biography of the Queen Mother) and that of 62-63. Well, that one I remember very well. I was in Europe in January 63. It was so cold in England that we dressed and undressed I bed; Paris looked and felt just as I does now; Lake Zurich froze over for the first time in 100 years and my aunt and I crossed it on foot. In Paris, the weather did not deter me (I was younger and had all my winter clothes!!!) from a full schedule of theatre, museums, long walks in the snow. But I overdid it and caught a dreadful cold. History seems to be repeating itself!

Herewith some more interior photos of the Ritz - complete with Christmas decorations.









And here is the tapestry outside my front door.

PARIS

I did not venture out yesterday - I was exhausted from the flight and virtually no sleep thanks to a screeching baby - all night!! Never encountered that before. Also, it is really cold and I could not pack heavy clothes or boots - no room. I'll have to make do with layering. I'm off to the theatre today and will leave early to do a bit of shopping en route. After the theatre, I am going to a friend's house for dinner - he is making lapin a la moutarde (I will not translate it - Julie will have a fit!!) and we are going to look at all his photos from the Norway cruise. It is snowing now - only 2-5cm (get out your converters - it's not much by our standards), but tomorrow in Belgium, where I am supposed to spend the day, they are to get 15 cm. Not sure if the trip will be a go. Estelle ad I are going to confab late tonight.

Now what did I actually DO yesterday. Well, I stayed at home! Cesar Ritz dreamed of creating the ideal hotel where the rich and famous would feel "at home". Well I aint the rich and famous, but I must say one does feel at home. Everything, from the separate foyer to the room and the doorbell to the impeccable and friendly service really does make it feel as though it is your own apartment in Paris. There is only one main restaurant in the hotel - the Espadon a one-star Michelin establishment where dinner costs $500 with wine - that's for one. Room Service is the way to go. I only wish I could throw the widows open, as I would in spring or summer. The Hemingway Bar is famous, but a drink can set you back $50 and I am not doing that just for the sake of doing it. There is a fabulous spa and one of the largest hotel swimming pools (free, thank goodness) in the world - it is stunning. IF I can get into my suit, I may brave all the surely skinny female guests and try it on Monday. (I've gained 12 lbs - may as well tell you in case you don't recognize me!!!)

In addition to having lunch and dinner in the room, I slept a lot. Got 10 hours sleep last night, so am pretty well caught up.

So,here is the lunch table - a Ritz club - BLT with chicken and egg...same as on the Vic - Gee I wonder where Cunard got the idea? - and a half bottle of Sancerre.



Dinner - clear vegetable soup and a REAL Caesar salad - gorgeous, perfect bib lettuce leaves, shaved Parmesan, the best prawns ever and THE best dressing. I must say, though, that all the portions are enormous - enough for three!



I took a bath in the largest, longest, deepest tub in years - I couldn't even prop my head up on a towel at one end to rea, my feet did not each the end and I kept slipping under. Still, it felt so good after the long flight.

This morning breakfast came at 9 - I was still asleep! Look at this table and note the Herald Tribune! My first x-word in almost 5 weeks!!!!




And here is a photo of the snow on the rooftops of Paris.

PARIS

Tra la la – puttin’ on the Ritz.
Tra la la – stayin’ at the Ritz..

Well, here I am in Paris and lucky to be here too. The situation at Heathrow is so bad that no BA planes have left JoBurg for two days. Some people were being re-booked for the 11th and the 13th. I was lucky - Jay’s travel agent got me a confirmed seat on an Air France direct flight to Paris. After waiting one hour in the BA line to do the paperwork, we went to check in and were told that I was on stand-by. Someone had overbooked by 50 people. All I could do was wait until 7:30. Jay and I had coffee and confabbed on all possible scenarios if I didn’t get on the flight. We tried all the other airlines going to Europe…all full. Anyway, Jay’s optimism paid off and I was the first stand-by to be called. You can imagine my relief.

Flight was pretty good – but AF is not what it once was. Qantas is still the one for me!!! I read and slept a bit. I was met by “Olivier” at the door of the plane at 6 am. With his special ID, we went straight to the head of the immigration line. Now that’s a nice feeling! Very VIP! We still had to wait for baggage – I described my suitcases to him and he spotted them right away. He whisked me off and handed me over (passing the parcel again- hahahah) to Eric, the chauffeur of the Merc. Before I knew it, we were entering the Place Vendome – lovely even in the very gray winter morning – sun still hadn’t come up! And there it was - the Ritz. The doorman whisked my luggage off – another porter whisked me off to reception. All smiling and “Bonjour Madame” - but not condescending.

My room is not ready of course. So I am sitting in this beautiful salon – I’ll have some coffee later. I don’t think I’ll have to wait until 1pm, normal check-in time. I really can’t go out – I do not have my full complement of winter clothes on yet – it was 100 degrees when I left, so I changed into what I could carry in the plane. It is 25 degrees here and snow is forecast for tomorrow and Sunday.



I am trying not to fall asleep – though that is all I want to do - because I am sure I will snore. hahahahah

10am - yay I have a room and here are some photos - it's breathtaking and this is just an "ord inary" room. Note the light switches....and the bedside Bose! Built in the early 18th century, it became Cesar Ritz's luxuryhotel in 1898. Escoffier, the great chef was his minority partner. The facade was designed by Mansart. Most everything in the room seems to be original....re-gilded, re-painted etc.

BACK TO PRETORIA

On Monday the 4th, David and Vanessa drove me back to Pretoria in driving rain, under lowering skies and occasional nasty thunderstorms. Unpaved side roads were washed out rivers of red mud; occasional flooding. We stopped at the Silverstar Casino near Krugersdorp, about an hour out of Pretoria, for a late lunch overlooking a beautiful artificial lake with fountains and waterfalls....I had my kingklip again.

They dropped me at Jay and Belinda's....we have taken to calling it "pass the parcel"! After drinks, David and Vanessa went off to spend a "lost" night in Pretoria and go to see :"Invictus" which I'd like to see. Everyone here says it is excellent. A few people have seen "District 9", which I saw on the plane. It is certainly an unusual film...a sci-fi film based on vents in Cape Town during apartheid... and it invites a great deal of discussion. A strange mixture of comedy and socioracial horror. I was happy to find people who had seen it...I am looking forward to talking to Jonathan about it.

Spent the last three days visiting with the Pretoria tribe. Lunch on Tuesday with Jimmy, Elspeth, Stan, Pam, Jay and two of his children, Brittany and Jayson. Ross, Sandy and Candace dropped in for tea at Jimmy and Elspeth's. Another gray, rainy day...and very cool - needed jackets. On Wednesday, lunch and afternoon with Stan and Pam; dinner with their daughter and family: Veronica, Leon, Shannon and Reece. Weather starting to clear.

Today, lunch with Jimmy, Elspeth, Jay, Belinda and family and then off to the airport with Jay and Belinda. Paris awaits! Hot day. Heathrow is shut down because of the awful weather in the UK. No BA flights out of Joburg since day before yesterday. I've been put on an Air France flight - direct to Paris which suits me just fine.

Farewell to Africa......but only au revoir. We are already making plans for 2011 - Botswana? Namibia? Serengeti? We'll see.

So here are photos of the South African Preeces, Elspeth's brother and family and Flora, Ian and Nikki's maid - isn't her dress colorful?

Not forgetting my furry friends:

















and some new sightings - albino blesbuck - calf looks normal colored though.