PARIS

Yesterday, I woke up to snow and had my breakfast in the room, watching the flakes drift by. It did not amount to much, but it was too slippery for walking. I had planned to do a bit of shopping but thought better of it. So, I did not venture out until it was time to leave for the Comedie-Francaise….a ten-minute walk down the Rue Saint-Honore. By then, enough of the snow had melted that most sidewalks were clear. It was such a thrill to be there – finally – after all these years. There, in the foyer, was a statue of the great man himself, Moliere. In a glass case stands the chair Moliere was sitting in during his last performance, “Le Malade Imaginaire”; he took ill on stage, was taken off still sitting in the chair and died shortly afterward in the wings. The Comedie Francaise is known as "the house that Moliere built". Founded in 1680, it is the only state theatre with its own troupe of actors. The current building, also known as the Salle Richelieu, dates to 1799.

The performance of “L’Avare” (“The Miser”) was classic 17th century in every sense: costumes, décor, farce. It was pure Moliere in his message about avarice and about parental abuse of children’s rights and interference in their love life.

The actor who played the lead is one of France’s best-known and he was amazing…light on his feet and very acrobatic which added to the farcical elements. What a performance! There were 10 curtain calls…the spectators went wild! Since it was a Saturday matinee, the audience was filled with children, mainly accompanied by their grandparents. So heartwarming! They were all beautifully behaved. At one point, after Harpagon, the miser, has discovered the theft of his beloved money, he approached the front of the stage, spotlighted, and addressed the audience…”Who has seen my strongbox…who stole it?” Then he clambered over orchestra seats and accused various people, asking the audience – he was really addressing the children – if they knew who it was. “Is he here?” Yes, yelled the kids. This went on for a few minutes. It was quite extraordinary – more like an English pantomime….and not in Moliere’s script. It only added to the extraordinary atmosphere.

After the theatre, I got a taxi and went over to Jacques’ apartment, a good distance away in the 15th arrondissement – right across Paris, passing the Eiffel Tower, all lit up. Jacques had prepared a lovely supper – vegetable soup, lapin a la moutarde, cheese, salad and crème brulee. Le lapin:



We spent the evening poring over photo albums of cruises and books on maritime history (his hobby). His apartment is filled to the brim with books, photos, prints, souvenirs of all the cruises he has taken. He was smitten long before the first one he took – which was on the QE2, after that he was doomed!!!! We talked fondly of the “grande dame” and how she is surely the most beloved ship in history. Came time to return here and we could not get a taxi – impossible – so Jacques accompanied me home on the metro. We alighted at the Opera, so beautiful all lit up. From there is was a 5 minute walk to the hotel through the Place Vendome, also beautifully illuminated.



Even in the grey arctic weather, Paris, the City of Lights, manages to sparkle. The holiday lights and decorations are lovely. Parisians were out in droves yesterday for the January sales – bundled up like Eskimos – not much Parisian chic - 99% anoraks – 2 fur coats spotted!!!! As for the clientele here at the hotel - I am sure that, when I see someone in frayed jeans, Doc Martens and a nondescript jacket, I am looking at some famous person…but who? Not much chic here at all. But they wear their frayed clothes well!! Hahahah

Views from the Ritz of the Place Vendome:





Today I was to go to Brussels – trip had to be cancelled. The weather there is awful.... snow yesterday and more on the way….and trains are not reliable. Estelle cannot even get out of her house. Such a shame. We had tickets for a concert…..but I was so looking forward to seeing her. I think I caught a bit of a cold yesterday…and it is nasty outside, so I think I’ll stay “at home”. Maybe an outing tomorrow. Apparently, I am not the only one here with a cold staying in the room!

In the UK, people are comparing this winter to that of 1947 which brought misery to the country (I’ve just finished read about it in the biography of the Queen Mother) and that of 62-63. Well, that one I remember very well. I was in Europe in January 63. It was so cold in England that we dressed and undressed I bed; Paris looked and felt just as I does now; Lake Zurich froze over for the first time in 100 years and my aunt and I crossed it on foot. In Paris, the weather did not deter me (I was younger and had all my winter clothes!!!) from a full schedule of theatre, museums, long walks in the snow. But I overdid it and caught a dreadful cold. History seems to be repeating itself!

Herewith some more interior photos of the Ritz - complete with Christmas decorations.









And here is the tapestry outside my front door.