COLIGNY

Stan and Pam met up with Ray and David about an hour outside of Pretoria and off I went to Coligny on the high veldt – Northwest Province – part of the old Transvaal. Ray is the middle of my father’s three first cousins. He met his wife at age 11 when she came to school in Pretoria. Her father, although a Boer, wanted his daughters to learn English. Ray was invited to the family farm and the rest is history. He opted out of the family firm in Pretoria and went off to be a farmer. Koekie and her 4 sisters eventually inherited the family farms and now Ray’s 3 sons manage the farm, which has grown to 1700 hectares of mielies (maize), pecan trees, soya beans, cattle and chickens. Wayne, the eldest, lives in the lovely family home that Ray and Koekie built in 1955. The others live I nearby towns, as do Ray and Koekie now that they are retired.

Coligny is on the high open veldt…it is very like our plains and produces the same kind of crops in great quantities. Huge silos loom on the horizon. Dealers in farming equipment, fertilizers, etc. line the main streets. This is farming country.

We had a large midday meal, as is the custom here, and then settled in for a quiet evening. I barely realized it was New Year’s Eve. Ray taped the Times Square festivities which we watched the next day.

The photo is of Tabby, one of the two cats in residence. I have had cats and dogs to cuddle everywhere.....but, take note Ben Diamond, Esq., none compares to Bau!!!!

LETSITELE TO PRETORIA

Woke up to light rain – the pool was full, but a mess, dirt had been blown in and the surface was covered with flying ants……and some frogs had taken up residence. The kingfishers were having a feast on the ants! As for the girls, they went right in before the ants were skimmed off. We got them to dry off for photo ops and then it was time for goodbyes before our return to Pretoria.





Magoebaskloof (the area like Scotland) was shrouded in mist and the temperature dropped 10 degrees Celsius by the time we reached the top. It looked even more like Scotland. After a brief stop for lunch, we arrived in Pretoria and I spent the night with Stan and Pam. We had a wonderful meal alfresco in a local restaurant – I had my favorite African fish – Kingklip – and we laughed until 11 pm. – mainly family stories.

LETSITELE

Yesterday was catch-up day on the computer. I spent most of the day in Nikki’s office, in a separate building, checking 88 e-mails and catching up on the blog. We went to Nikki’s parents home for tea and milk tart – yum…..then drinks outside waiting for hippo ripples and watching the paradise fly catcher. The new pool proceeds apace and the girls are dying to swim in it.

Last evening, we drove up to the dam for drinks, meeting Shayne and his parents up there. The sunset was incredible and we had the company of a hippo who moved closer and closer, especially as dusk set in. We were hogging his nighttime grazing grounds! At one point he reared up and gave us quite a show of his teeth, which are enormous…not used for eating, since hippos are herbivores, but for fighting. Ian has half a hippo tusk, which came from a hippo shot by a local in revenge (long story) and it is very heavy indeed.






Today, another day trip – to Hoedspruit where the Blyde river has its headwaters. (I visited the Blyde River Canyon in 1996.) We visited the Maholoholo Rehabilitation Center, which Jonathan and I visited in 1996…where he held a vulture on his arm and I cuddled a caracal. This time, we all petted a cheetah and had the opportunity to have a vulture on one’s arm while it was being fed. I declined only because I didn’t think my arm would be strong enough. It was all very interesting…but it was extremely hot – over 100F and there were way too many people. We saw honey badgers – stinky but very cute, wilk dogs, lions and eagles. The area is a stunning panorama of cliffs bordering Kruger Park. A few years ago, all the fences around Kruger and the neighboring private game reserves and between S. Africa and Mozambique were removed in order to allow the animals greater freedom and access to more foraging areas. Problems of poisoning and poaching remain, hence the need for rehab centers. Some animals can be returned to the wild; those that cannot serve to educate people.

We had lunch at a lovely resort, Maholoholo Ya Mati overlooking the river. On the way home, we encountered some elephants by the Makhutswe River - a lovely herd with two babies.











DeeAnn did not come with us – she was going to be the first in the pool at all costs. When we got back, the pool had about one foot of water…and DeeAnn…in it. It didn’t take long for Cayleigh to join her. Just before dinner, the skies opened up – huge storm – rain, hail and heavy winds - and it rained all night while the pool was filling.

LETSITELE

Up early for a day on the Ebenezer Dam. Nikki organized a day trip on the Sunset Queen, a raft or what we would consider a houseboat. By the time she had finished, she had Ian’s partner, his girl friends, her parents, and assorted friends and their children signed up. We were 22 In all. We drove through the “Scottish” scenery toward the Drakensburg where one ridge looks like Kruger’s head. The raft had tables, chairs, a bar and a braai, of course. Everything was provided for lunch except the meat and drinks. The crew of 2 cooked all the meat veryone brought and provided cutlery and plates etc. Another feast!!! And drinkage!!!! Ian’s partner, Shayne, brought his power boat…so there were boat rides for the kids and water skiing for some brave adults. The kids also brought their blow-ups and swam off the platform at the rear. We mosied around for 5 hours total, stopping at a lovely waterfall for lunch. The dam is very popular with fishermen and holiday makers…..so there are summer homes of all sizes in clusters here and there.





After the trip, we went to Annie and Norman's (friends of Ian and Nikki) house for tea and Christmas cake. Talk about "Out of Africa". I thought I'd been thrust into a novel. The spacious house was built by Annie's grandmother in the late 40s. Thatched roof - Anglo-African. It is situated on a ridge in Haenertzburg with the most magnificent views of their 100+ hectares and the mountains beyond. Pool, tennis courts, stables, and English gardens as far as the eye can see. It is breathtaking. Annie and her husband grow avocado trees and evergreens for lumber...and they raise horses. Her parents have just taken a string of racehorses to Singapore!!!



This is the view from the terrace where we had tea.



Hydrangeas (not native) thrive here - one sees them everywhere, even on the side of the road - gorgeous range of colors. Azaleas (also introduced) are a magnificent sight when in bloom. The weather up here is much cooler, so much so that Annie's pool is painted black to retain the heat!

We were so tired from the fresh air that we barely made it through a light supper. Bed at 8:30!

THABAZIMBI TO LETSITELE

Up at 5:30 for one last ride on the quad bikes….saw kudu, giraffe and a grey blue heron….and then a terrific sighting….two young impala bucks, testing their fighting skills.



Then it was goodbyes and off with Billy and family to meet up with Stan and Pam (another branch) at Bela Bela (Warm Baths). More goodbyes as Billy and co. went home to Pretoria. We drove north, stopping for breakfast, and then turned east toward Polokwane (former Pietersburg). By now we were in Limpopo Province (the old Northern Transvaal). Remember the great grey green greasy Limpopo of Rudyard Kipling!!!! The drive was stunning as the thick bush gave way to more open land with aloes and mountains. After Polokwane, the secenery changed dramatically as we climbed into the high areas of Magoebaskloof. I was not prepared for the evergreens, mosses and ferns……so green. It looked like Scotland! Parts even reminded of Switzerland – many homes are built like chalets.The temperature dropped considerably. After 4 hours total, with the stop, we arrived in Tzaneen and then went on to Letsitele where Stan and Pam’s son lives with his family. Ian farms citrus and chickens. Their spacious house, which reminds me of the lodges at Mala Mala is thatched-roof African-style and sits on the banks of the Letaba River which flows into Kruger Park – not that far to the east. If you look at a map, you will see how far north we are.

Ian and Nikki have two lovely little girls who greeted me with presents. Other greeters: two cats and three dogs, one of which is a Jack Russell – very popular here. Nikki’s Mom has two…..the people next door in Thabazimbi had three. They are so affectionate. I’m in love with them.

Well, the local wildlife put on quite a show within minutes of my arrival. An enormous spider was dangling from the roof…Ian knocked it down into the grass…it immediately put itself into a defensive position by drawing its legs together so they looked like horns. Didn’t deter a huge blue wasp – they fought and the wasp won….took it off to its nest.

Next, the hippos came downstream…..and then a big croc swam upstream! Then a paradise flycatcher hunted in the closest tree. And the ahdidas (so-called for their call, but they are really ibis) screeched on their way upriver. Here it is again that word – magical!!!



Took a brief nap and a refreshing shower....outside! The two guest rooms downstairs have a raised area with sink and huge bathtub and then an outside shower enclosure through French doors.

Went off with Ian and the girls to see the farm and the computerized chicken sheds...and take a little drive around their dam where he often takes the girls fishing and they have a little brei.


Then it was time for drinks and a lovely dinner outside by candlelight. Early night - it had been a long day.

THABAZIMBI

I can't believe that is it Christmas Day! The boys were up early waiting for the rest of us to appear so we could start opening presents. It was fun....the family gave me a lovely gift and the boys gave me guess what.......Cadbury's!!!



We went next door for brunch in the larpa (open entertainment area)...but first we had to visit the Cape Buffalo the family is raising. Don't their horns look like little Dutch caps? They are magnificent. These are the most dangerous animals when ired. I'd seen them quite close up in Kruger Park, but not like this, obviously. This one was very curious.




We also saw the caracal kitten, Minkie – just look at these colors. Eventually she will be striped like her parents. She acts just like any kitten with her toys…very affectionate….but she is a wild cat and has the large paws of her species. Apparently, they are very popular as pets on Afrikaner farms right now. I don’t like the idea of exotic pets….but it’s not for me to say anything. Dyan agrees and Billy said that we should not pet or touch the caracal…..he teased us mercilessly…. But I am not going to pass up an opportunity to interact with any animal!



And we saw these wonderful dung beetles - one rolling the dung along, the other on for the ride!



Another feast – I am going to burst at this rate – then we went back for naps and then more rides in the bush. This time we saw the elands – the largest of the antelopes – a first for me, but they were too shy and took off before I could take a photo. Oh yes, one of the dishes served was a bowl full of fried parson’s (or pope’s noses). Billy was horrified that I ate them. They were crispy and delicious….but they are 100% fat as we all know. But, once in a lifetime!!!



Drinks as usual in the shade of the acacia tree – I could sit there forever. It is so peaceful. More family arrived and by now we woud be 26 for Christmas dinner. The next door family arrived with boxes and boxes and within half an hour the place was turned into an elegant fairyland. Three long tables spread with white cloths and red runners, red chargers, white china plates, red-swirled champagne glasses, chocolates, tinsel, candles. The bar top was spread with a red runner, branches with white fairy lights, santa candles and pine cones. The kids hung all the Christmas crackers in the acacia tree. It was magical. And the feast: prawns in avocado, smoked snook, fish pate, cold gammon (i.e. ham - but far more delicate than ours), cold lamb and fillet, salads, fruit, champagne punch, trifle, ice cream.....and then all the chocolates!





Most of the menfolk (hahahaha) stayed up until one...but the rest of us were long gone!!!! What a wonderful bush Christmas!

THABAZIMBI

We arrived here at lunchtime and look who greeted us!!!!



The boys wasted no time getting on their quad bikes and heading off into the bush. The "oldies", as Billy calls us, were taken for rides, too! And then toward nightfall we headed off on the truck for an evening drive. The animals are active in the early morning and evening. We saw giraffe and impala, plovers, woodland kingfishers (gorgeous blue), brown-headed kingfishers and an enormous red-billed stork....and, of course, more birds: barbets, weavers, hornbills, lhouries....



Then it was time for drinks under the large acacia (or thorn) tree.....drinking is very important in South Africa!

By dinner time, the fire was roaring in the boma and the brei was crackling with a huge leg of lamb and fillets. More family members arrived and then the family next door came laden with Afrikaner dishes: a sweet bread, made in a cauldron over the coals, with coals placed on the lid, too. And a huge dish made of mealies (white corn meal -the staple of the country), sweet corn, bacon, cream, cheese...and I don't know what else. A huge salad completed the dinner. What a feast, sitting inside the boma under the stars. We were 22 in all.



Santa made an appearance for the young ones...quite a surprise apparently - organized by the next-door family.

Bed to the sound of cicadas and jackals. Very hot during the day...but lovely cool evenings.

PRETORIA TO THABAZIMBI

Tomorrow the adventure begin!. After 5 days of visits, shopping, chatting, catching up, a haircut and manicure, and everyone having some sort of 24-hour bug (!!!!), we are off to the family farm, several hours north of Pretoria. It will get much hotter as we go north. There will be two SUVs loaded to the gills with Preeces and Dyan’s Mom and all the food assigned to Billly and Derek…..plus all the presents and I have quite a contingent of those. And Christmas crackers, of course!! More members of the family will join us there – Derek’s two daughters, their husband and boy friend and Elspeth’s brother and wife, another Elaine. We are meant to be around 26 on Xmas Day, as the family on the neighboring farm will join us, bringing their pet caracal with them. A caracal is a African wildcat. Jonathan will remember meeting one in a wildlife sanctuary in the Eastern Transvaal in ‘96 and we have photo of me holding it.

There is no point telling you what the degrees of the various cousins are – they are all just cousins, 2nd, 3rd or otherwise. I’ve been staying with Billy and Dyan and their two adorable boys, Chad 8 and Kyle 10. I’ve been watching cricket test matches with them and trying to understand the game…I’m getting there! Two lovely dogs and two gorgeous cats complete the picture. The boys wait on me hand and foot – so solicitous! Every day I have tea with Billy’s dad, cousin Jimmy and wife Elspeth who used to do all the hosting, but have passed the baton to their three sons. I’ll see Derek at the farm and Jay at the very end of the trip. I’ll also be seeing the other two branches of the family, one at a farm in Tzaneen, even farther from Pretoria, and the others in Coligny. (Get out your atlases!) I believe there are some special outings at Tzaneen.

The family farm consists of 400 hectares of bush, a dam (i.e. artificial lake), and a camp, which consists of a large building housing huge kitchens, outdoor living area (larpa) and 8 bedrooms and bathrooms. A pool and a boma complete the picture. A boma is a fenced in round area with a huge firepit and braai (barbecue) in the middle. After supper, we all sit around the fire and drink and make merry!!!!

There are lots of animals: zebra, giraffe, warthog, all different type of buck (antelope): impala, eland, kudu...and wonderful birds!

None of the big five, of course – that would be too dangerous! Though the farm next door had lions, some of which belonged to Derek, when I was last there – now that was exciting visiting them, especially the big male, Simba, which Derek had hand-raised. But they don’t have them any more.

PRETORIA, SOUTH AFRICA

Sorry for gap in posts. Days mostly spent travelling with a break in Melbourne where I had dinner with Gail and family. No internet here...am in a cafe with a terrible PC for one hour...may have access after Xmas at which time I will catch up...hopefully with some photos. Happy Holidays to everyone. Lots of love and meow to Bau.

AUCKLAND

Today dawned cool and cloudy. We we sure it was going to rain, so we set off for for Muriwai with warm clothes. By the time we got there - about 40km northwest on the coast - the weather was gorgeous - warm, sunny, blue skies. That's Auckland for you! The purpose of going to Muriwai, which is a lovely place in and of itself, was to see the gannet colony. Very exciting...beautiful birds...there were still some lovely fluffy chicks being fed and stretching their wings. The colony started out on a little island off the coast, but grew and grew and then took over a steep cliff island barely off the coast and is now making its way up the mainland, displacing a colony of grey-backed terns. What a sight!

Muriwai is basically a tiny summering place with the famous black sand beaches northwest of Auckland. Rolling waves make it a haven for surfers. Once again, there is very little sign of human habitation....just miles of beach.

We had lunch at a local cafe and then head back to Auckland for coffee with Karen. Here is an overexposed photo of Ross and Karen (I flicked the camera onto the wrong setting - it looks more like a studio photo!!! - in fact, all the photos from today are washed out - silly me!!!) I don't have any other photos of people at this point - they are all on other peoples' cameras.



Now it's time to pack and get ready to leave tomorrow. Coffee with Wayne in the morning, then the airport for 11am. The week has flown...very sorry to leave, but at least this time, I can say: "See you in 3 months!!".

AUCKLAND

Today, I went for a sail in an America's Cup boat, NZL41 which was once JPN41, a Japanese contender in the 1995 America's Cup race. ( It is hard to believe that the race has not been in Narragansett Bay since 1983.) The wind was very strong - 20 knots -and the mainsail had to be reefed. But what a ride - we heeled over so far, that the only comfortable position was standing, braced against the foot rests. Auckland is an amazing place to sail. Anyone who wanted could grind or take the helm....there were plenty of volunteers. We sailed under the Auckland Harbour Bridge with very little leeway...exciting.

Fascinating and exhilarating. I walked down to the harbour - about half an hour. Ross met me at the end of the sail and we walked back - UP the hill, touch going.

Ross' best friend, David, came over for drinks and dinner made by "himself"- chicken risotto and caesar salad. Then a nice long walk up Ponsonby Road to the Telecom Tree which is in a different place, but even more spectacular than last year. There are at least a billion variations of lights and the top of the tree now opens and closes. The big white cushions are still there....I could have stayed forever just staring up at the ever-changing lights. The wishing telephone booths are also there. The ambiance in Ponsonby and on Franklin Road is so festive. Everyone reckons this is the best year ever for the lights.

AUCKLAND

The last of the pahutakawa blossoms.



Cool and windy - the warm weather is coming after I leave, of course. I really felt cold. The usual routine in the morning, cappuccino, almond croissant and the newspaper. Ross had some business in another part of town and suggested I scope out a mall with discounted designer clothes. Great bargains for men -Lauren etc. - not so-so for women. Got a couple of things. Then we met for lunch, after which we went for a drive to a historic village 50km north of Auckland. It doesn't take long to bin the middle of nowhere in this country, once you leave a town or city.

We headed for Puhoi which was settled by Bohemians in 1863 - Bohemian as is Czech!!!! 82 Bohemians from Staab landed there after a four-mont voyage via cutter and then up the Puhoi River in Maori canoes. The story is familiar......the NZ government wanted to find suitable people to settle the area which was touted as the land of milk and honey. 40 acres of free land for each adult and 20 acres for each child between 5 and 18. How could they refuse? They faced difficult political and religious times at home and the average family could obtain about 140 acres. What they had not been told was that this particular block was steep, not conducive to cultivation and covered in impregnable heavy native forest. Similar to our Pilgrims, the Bohemians had a very difficult time and were saved from starvation by the Maoris who brought them vegetables and fruit and taught them survival skills.


What is left today is a tiny village consisting of a tiny church, pub, a hotel, an antique store, a tea room and the tiniest library I have ever seen. There are 380 survivors of the initial group scattered around the area. Traditions are kept alive through music and dance.



Puhoi then:



Puhoi now:







After poking around, we settled in for tea at the oldest tea room in New Zealand...and, by the way, the home of the largest scones. Well, large they were - humongous - and dreadful! The owner, a Yorkshireman, sat down near us and started to play blues on his guitar. It was so incongruous - a Yorkshireman in an historic Bohemian village in New Zealand, serving scones the size of Ethiopia and playing American blues. You can imagine how hard it was not to burst out laughing....but we were very good. Every day brings an adventure.




The day ended with champagne and smoked salmon at David and Karen's with Jan and Layne, followed by dinner at an Indian restaurant, Yum. It was a fun evening - how we laughed. A preview of the cruise to come when the six of us will be at the same table in the dining room.

AUCKLAND

Woke up to pouring rain - it was bucketing down. Two hours later when we went out for breakfast - hot and sunny. That's Auckland - 4 climates in one day. Puttered around while Ross worked - caught up on stuff I meant to do before I left. Went up to Ponsonby Road and did some shopping. A quiet day. Wayne and Karen came over for drinks, then we went off to the Belgian Beer Hall located in the beautifully restored old post office, rescued from mold and lichen by Ross' sister's partner. Inside, it looked just like an old Brussels restaurant. What did I have......moules frites and Stella of course. We walked back and then walked the entire road - the lights are even more spectacular this year. Of course, Ross' house with the synchronized music is the center of attention.

Here is a very blurry photo of the Sky Tower all lit up. I am still learning how to use my new camera - I shoot before it's ready!

AUCKLAND

The familiar view from the deck.




Arrived here yesterday after a very good flight, during which I slept for about 6 hours, maybe more. Finished my Deborah Crombie book (it was excellent, Linda) on my Kindle, which I love. Ross met me and, after dropping off the luggage, we went off to meet a friend for lunch. Then over to another friend's for coffee. They have just moved from "the big house" (hahaha) to an apartment with a panoramic view of the harbour. Stunning. Then we worked on our plans for Egypt during the upcoming cruise. After that, friends came over for dinner. I can't believe I made it to 9pm...but I did and slept for 11 hours despite all the people on the street looking at the lights...and this year Ross' lights are synchronized to music. Well, my mask and the Bose earphones worked and I never heard a thing!

I feel more human today! Today the weather looks more promising....blue skies and warmer. Yesterday was blustery and showery. In fact, blustery would be an understatement....Hamish had the worst flight of his life coming back from Dunedin, on South Island. We got caught in driving rain at one point.

We booked our flights to Cairo (during next year's cruise) and did some research on transportation from Cairo to Port Said...so that took up most of the afternoon.

Jan, Ross' sister, joined us for high tea at the Langham, a lovely hotel atop an Auckland hill. We had champagne, tea sandwiches, tartlets, scones, pastries.....and, of course, tea. The room was elegant and beautifully decorated for Christmas. It was scrumptious....needless to say, we did not need dinner!

Big night on the street....loads of people oohing and aahing. They are having problems with merchants setting up stalls along the road...not allowed. The entire show is for the people and no one can profit from it. Hamish and Ross had one of the city councilors and his wife over to check on the situation. He is going to get the council to take action....put their money where their mouth is. Hamish and Ross can't keep policing the whole street - it's exhausting and stressful. So that was the excitement for the evening.

I didn't have my camera - I'll see if Ross can e-mail me his photos from the i-phone and then I'll upload them later.