DAY 13 EN ROUTE TO SOUTHAMPTON

Well, this is it. Last this and that!

We all had lunch in the Britannia, which was great fun. Most of the day was spent packing and sorting out odds and ends. Jacques, Jacqueline and I did one last Trivia and lost again! I had asked our waiter to raid the Grilles on the last day and produce some truffles (which everyone USED to get- hahah!) and he was true to his word…so the dinner was very festive. Everyone brought their trolls to the table. I did not buy a troll, as you know, but I brought a lovely creature who as yet has no name and who, according to one tablemate who tried to make off with him, purrs!!!!!!! Wait and see.

After dinner, met Willy in the Commodore Club for drinks and we had a lovely tete a tete. He is one of the sweetest, kindest men I have ever met. I am only sorry that Beverly was not on board.

Drinks in the Chart Room at 10:30…..final goodbyes…and so to bed…but clocks go back. Rough weather ahead in the channel (do I hear Mrs. Bayles???).

Off the ship at 8:30 tomorrow. Cunard transfer to Terminal 5 at Heathrow and then I pick up rental car. First stop, Maidstone, Kent. Will try to be in touch via e-mail. Love to you all. Thank you for your comments and e-mails.

Au revoir, Vicky

DAY 12 BERGEN

We arrived in this charming city this morning and promptly set out on two back-to-back tours.

Al little background. Bergen is often referred to as the “Gateway to the Fjords”. It is a UNESCO World Heritage City and Norway’s second largest port. It is located on Puddefjorden, Byfjorden and Sorjorden, surrounded by 7 mountains and an archipelago of islands. The oldest part of the city is on the bay of Vagen and it is here that you find Bryggen, a number of old, wooden houses dating from the 14th-16th centuries when they housed German merchants of the Hanseatic League who first settled here around 1350. The League dominated northern European trade routes. These waterfront structures were rebuilt following a disastrous fire in 1702 (fires are frequent in Bergen!!). Today only the facades and the alleyways are original. Inside, they have been modernized and converted to boutiques or artists’ studios.

Bergen enjoys a mild climate, thanks, once again, to the Gulf Stream…it also has more rainfall than anywhere else in Norway. May and June are the best months – it is likely to rain in July! The economy is, and always has been, based on the sea.

Also down on the waterfront are King Hakon’s Hall, a 13th century royal home and Rosenkrantztarnet, a 16th century fortified tower. Built by governor Erik Rosenkrantz, the tower is built around 19th-century ruins. Both are unassuming and quite small.

Edvard Grieg, Bergen’s favorite son. His home at Trondhaugen is nearby. Unfortunately, I had to choose between that and seeing the old part of Bergen and the surroundings. I will have to come back! Ibsen is not from Bergen proper, but from the area.

Well, the first tour was “Bergen by land and sea”. We had a walking tour of Bryggen, ducking down very narrow alleys with original timbers. Most of the houses are joined together and there are no alleyways. It was fascinating. King Cod ruled the business world at that timer.

We visited the open-air fish market, the Sma Lungeren, a park with a lovely gazebo and fountain and then drove around most of the city. I am very sleep-deprived and I fell asleep after we left the center. Oops! We then embarked on a boat, which toured all the islands in the surrounding fjords. Each island was different from the next. We saw small lighthouses, little weekend cabins, suburban homes and Olle Bull’s magnificent arabesque “castle”. He was the pop star of his era – the 19th century. Two large bridges link some of the larger islands…more are in the works. And many tunnels link the various outlying areas beyond the mountains

Back to the ship – 15 minutes to get a sandwich and then off again….shuttle bus to city center, nice walk to the funicular t the top of Mt. Floen and then a 2hr, 5km walk up through the forest. Beautiful views of the entire area. Since it was Sunday and a nice, albeit somewhat cloudy day, families were out in droves. Since Norwegians start their love of outdoor life in Kindergarten, no one, of any age, had trouble negotiating the slopes. I found it hard going at one point.

Our guide told me that this love of all things outdoors is called Freluftliev (not sure of spelling) – of you know any German – it translate literally to love of the free 9outdoor) life. Norwegian is a stange mixture of English, German, some French and “other” linguistic influences. When one hears them speaking, it sounds very like German.

Last formal night – took my last bottle of champagne to the table. We had the parade of chefs and dining room personnel and, of course, baked Alaska. Ah but there was rum raisin ice cream on the menu and that’s what I had. I love it.

Met the gang after dinner and we’ve made arrangements to have a goodbye lunch in the Britannia at 12:30 tomorrow.

In bed by 9:30!!! Determined to catch up on sleep.

DAY 11 ANDALSNES

We are well out of the Arctic Circle now and the weather is fantastic. Blue skies, hot (84F). We are at anchor in Andalsnes, a town of 3,000, on the shores of Romsdalsfjord and at the mouth of the river Rauma. Romsdalsfjord is linked to Moldefjord and the North Sea beyond.

Andalsnes and its neighbor Molde are postwar modern cities having been obliterated by the Germans in 1940. King Haakon VII had been taken into the hills above Andalsnes for safety. The royal family escaped, but the towns did not. The area is well-known for its fly-fishing and was frequented by English nobility, one of whom is still in residence. It is also famous for skiing, hiking, mountain and rock climbing.

I took a full-day tour, which took us around Romsdalsfjord, then along the Insfjord and the Tresfjord. We continued up the Skorge Valley to the Orskogfjellet mountain plateau. We then descended to the Storfjord and across a mountain pass to the Norddalsfjord. From the Storfjord one can enter a narrow arm and arrive at Geirangerfjrd, which we visited last week. The scenery is similar – The Romsdal Alps, the gateway to the “Westfjords” surround the beautiful fjords.

Along the way, we drove through several long tunnels. The Norwegians thrive on the challenges of engineering mountain roads and linking towns. More tunnels are in the works.

We learned that this Tresfjorden is often known as “Thaifjord” because, it seems that many Norwegian men find Norwegian women too demanding, so they “find” or send for the more submissive Thais!!!

We drove inland past stands of fast-growing spruce, which was introduced, from southeastern Norway to supplement the slow-growing native pines. We past many traditional farms, some with sod roofs. Once again, most of the farms are no longer used for farming, but they are hard to buy because the owners hold on to them and use them for holiday homes. There are some small holdings with very small herds of cows and a few sheep. Government subsidies help these farmers.

Once summer comes, the Norwegians take to the outdoors and shed most of their clothes! They really enjoy the limited amount of good weather. They hike, camp, fish, swim in cold streams, climb or just laze I the sun in skimpy outfits.

After a wonderful buffet in the Strawberry House (Jordbaerstova) were we feasted on smoked salmon, baked salmon, another kind of salmon, cold cuts, deviled eggs, meatballs, reindeer emince (yummy), reindeer sausage, salads and the most wonderful fresh strawberries from the owner’s fields with thick thick cream.

Next stop the Gudbrand Gorge with foaming waterfalls and then on to Stigrora and an added attraction – a cycle race UP the Trollstigen or troll ladder (also known as the Serpentine Rd., a series of hairpins turns winding up the cliff to Stigrora, more than 2800’ above sea level. Not for the faint of heart!! We had to wait for the end of the race and then we made our way DOWN the troll ladder, passing the magnificent Stigfossen waterfall. We had sweeping views of the valley below. A very exciting descent. At one point a ewe and her two lambs came rushing into the finish area - not knowing which way to go.

Our final stop was at the legendary Trollvall or Troll Wall, one of Europe’s sheerest rock faces. There are any legends about Trolls. Here there are three mountains, the Bishop, the Queen and the King. The Bishop wanted to marry the King and Queen, but they all stayed up too late and were turned to stone by the rays of the rising sun. Oh the things the sun does to creatures of the night!!!

This sheer rock face was a favorite with base jumpers until the number of accidents led the authorities to ban it. It is a very impressive forbidding place.

Back at the pier in Andalsnes, there was a group of young women in national costume singing traditional songs and collecting money for a trip to Italy.

Back on the ship, I went to the Senior Officers cocktail party and dinner at Willy’s table. We made plans to meet for drinks on the last evening. It was a fund evening all around. No disco tonight! We didn’t finish dinner until 11pm!!! Now I am posting blog and going to bed. We are rocking and rolling tonight on the North Sea….it should rock me to sleep!

Again, thanks to all for the comments. Danielle, a couple in our Cruise Critic group are from ---guess where---Beverly!!!

Note the troll roadsign - only one in Norway!!!!

DAY 10 AT SEA EN ROUTE TO ANDALSNES

A gorgeous, warm day – hot in the sun, in fact. Went to a lecture on the QE2 -“Legacy of a Legend” with Peter Quartermaine – mainly about the architect and designer, James Gardner and his design contributions, his difficulties with an already stultified Cunard Line and a British Shipbuilding industry living in the 19th century. It was fascinating.

After that, hamburger, fries and onion rings on the Lido deck with Michelle and Margaret. Then a nap, laundry and then time for our big night.

We had cocktails in Jacques and Jacqueline’s cabin – we had champagne, gorgeous Loire Valley wines which Jacques brought with him, whisky and hors d’oeuvres which we had collected from the Lido earlier in the day: shrimp, smoked salmon, melon and Parma ham, cheeses, olives you name it.

Then on to Indian dinner in the Lido. Potu had aranged a long table for 13 – and on the starboard i.e., west side of the ship. Gorgeous skies again. We had a wonderful time. The meal was elegant and delicious; the décor, table settings and waiter’s garb – all Indian.

After dinner, dancing in the Lido and photos of the first sunset in 7 days. We are not sure what time the sun will rise. Jacques in going to stay up and tell us tomorrow. If it doesn’t rise, according to local tradition, we’ll have to sacrifice a virgin. Hahah. Fat chance finding one on this ship.

And now, a relatively (12:30 am- hahahah) early night….long tour tomorrow.

Photos are of last night’s scenery and the last non-sunset, the party and tonight’s sunset.

DAY 10 TROMSO

We are still 350 km inside the Arctic Circle, but it is much milder. Partly cloudy day…ranging from really overcast to periods of sun. The mild weather, unusual for this latitude, is due to the warming effect of the Gulf Stream. The average temperature in winter is 20F.

Tromso is a city and municipality in the county of Troms. The city center is located on the small island of Tromsoya, which is connected to the mainland by the Tromsobrua (bridge) or the Tromsoysund Tunnel and to the island of Kvaloya by the Sandnessund Bridge. The two islands are relatively flat, but the mainland features snow-capped coastal mountains.

The region is known for its record snowfalls…but mostly for the Aurora Borealis. Tromso is right in the middle of this zone and is one of the best places in the world to observe this phenomenon. Years ago, one could occasionally see them further south…...and, you won’t believe it, but I did, in Rhode Island in the mid-fifties. It was magical. Here, there is a special planetarium to study the northern lights, which can be seen for 200 days a year.

Tromso grew from a very small community of 18 people in 1789 and exploded to 11,000 by 1950 and today the population is 66,500, augmented by 10,000 students at the world’s northernmost university. In addition to the “usual” departments (faculties) there are also the faculties of fisheries, fish farming faculty, Sami faculty and the peace faculty where students learn how to find non-violent solutions to the world’s problems. Norway is a very green place, by all definitions of the word.

Tromso remained isolated until the 19th century when commercial traffic reached the harbor. Fishing made the city rich, but it also traded in commodities from all over the world. Foreign sailors introduced new styles, ideas and fashions. Tromso also became a holiday destination. French visitors had a particularly powerful impact – the local dialect includes such words as trottoir and jetee. People had to learn French, German, Russian in order to communicate because guilds, which drove the trade, grew up around these languages. Curiously enough, only the French language society allowed female members. Soon, Tromso became known as “the Paris of the North”.

I took a very nice tour, which started, at the museum, where the main exhibit was that of the Sami people. (The word Lapp is as passé as Eskimo, Gypsy and Untouchable). The wonderful depictions of Sami life, complete with teepees, tools, reindeer, sleds and wooden boats, whose planks were SEWN together with twine were very interesting. Mostly, I loved seeing the beautiful red and blue costumes with stunning woven bands traditional designs. The designs and the tiny looms remind me of Central American weaving. (Always looking for that common thread....no pun intended.)

The most interesting part, though, was that of the fate of the Sami before WWII. Their language and customs were forbidden; they were forced to learn Norwegian; Sami teachers had to teach the children Norwegian. Think of the Cherokees and the Aborigines……common thread!!

A huge effort has been made to recognize the Sami as a distinct culture. As I mentioned before, they are a people without a country, living as they do in 4 countries, much like the Kurds who straddle 2 counties and are stateless. All the road signs and university and hospital signs are in both languages now. However, as recently as 1999 some non-Sami wrote a petition to stop this.

The University of Tromso leads the world in telemedicine, that is medicine practiced via web cam. It also has a psychiatric hospital specializing in winter depression which, supposedly, affects more women than men. We were told that no everyone is affected by this depression.

We then went to see the “Cathedral of the Arctic” which is not really a cathedral. Built in 1964, its angular roof symbolizes the surrounding glacial landscape. It contains one of Europe’s largest stained glass windows. Otherwise, it is a very stark, white interior, illuminated by two huge chandeliers (out of place to my mind, even if one can say they mimic ice) and light coming through the floor-to-ceiling windows between the angles of the sloping roof.

Next, the best part – a trip up Storsteinen peak (1400’) on the cable car for magnificent views of the city, the harbor and the mountains. Also, beautiful alpine flowers and wild geraniums and buttercups lower down.

On the way back to the ship, we drove through the center of the old town which has the highest number of old wooden houses in North Norway….some with vertical siding some with horizontal. One is Bergen style, the other
Trondheim, but I can’t remember which is which!!! Lovely styles and colors.
Roald Amundsen’s statue is in one of the squares – with the obligatory gull on his head!!! We also took a very long road lined with houses of all style – as people can from other countries, they added their own architectural style to the mix.
Overall, however, the city is Euro-modern – stark and utilitarian.

Lovely gardens everywhere – you should see the Centaureas and the Columbines – enormous!! And ski jumps for national competitions – not long enough for Olympics. And one intrepid hiker accompanied by her dog with his own baggage!

Once back at the ship, had lunch and worked on blog, went to the library. Then it was time for dinner, after-dinner drink with the gang. Took photos of gorgeous scenery – will post tomorrow – then it was time to disco. Final photos of midnight sun and now posting blog at 12:41 a.m. Mystery – a body was removed today at 9 am. I will attempt to find out what happened. Miss Marple – are you there?

DAY 9 NORWEGIAN SEA EN ROUTE TO TROMSO

Weather getting warmer – 10C (50F)…partly cloudy…nice seas..some white caps..a few whale spouts.

Went to two lectures this morning. Peter Quartermaine again – “Understanding Ships” – how shapes and designs have changed over the years, the most significant factor being the ships’ intended ports and trade. He showed slides of everything from coastal coalers to the amazing Disney cruise ships.
Disney got permission to change the color of their lifeboats form orange to yellow, to match the yellow line around the hull. And, the Italian builders, Fincanteri, were not happy when asked to paint Disney characters on the stern in the act of painting the ship……but whatever Disney wants Disney gets……except in Dubai. Haha. Last year, Peter and Debbie told me that Disney wanted to bring Disneyland to the desert, on their terms. The Sheikh dictated his terms. Disney told him to get stuffed…so I believe Universal Studios will have the honor!!!

Next another very informative and hilarious, lecture by the resident expert on Norway, Jane Davey ---all about Bergen. At one time, while a member of Hansa, Bergen was more powerful than London!! And did you know that Vikings, for all their marauding, were literate. Note left after raping a lovely Scottish lass, “Must be on my vay…more willages to plunder before I sleep. Perhaps ve vill met again next pillaging season, ja” Hahaha. Of course, the young lass did not read runes. Am very excited about seeing Norway’s cultural capital in a few days.

After lunch a wonderful concert, mainly Grieg, but also Rachmaninoff and Tchaikovsky – wonderful pianist, a Lancashire lad.

Jacqueline went to the pastry demonstration while we were at the lectures….caught a photo, though. Here it is.

After lunch, caught up on the blog and then went to the pub do to trivia…lost badly. Oh well! Then it was time for dinner. After dinner, met up with the gang which h now includes Lesley and David—and he is one crazy funny guy – from Lancashire. The routine is that they have their cocktails before their late dinner and I have my Scotch after my early dinner.

Tomorrow Tromso and an early start!! Am posting a photo from my window – the sky is like that 24/24. And the sea doesn’t change much.