DAY 11 ANDALSNES

We are well out of the Arctic Circle now and the weather is fantastic. Blue skies, hot (84F). We are at anchor in Andalsnes, a town of 3,000, on the shores of Romsdalsfjord and at the mouth of the river Rauma. Romsdalsfjord is linked to Moldefjord and the North Sea beyond.

Andalsnes and its neighbor Molde are postwar modern cities having been obliterated by the Germans in 1940. King Haakon VII had been taken into the hills above Andalsnes for safety. The royal family escaped, but the towns did not. The area is well-known for its fly-fishing and was frequented by English nobility, one of whom is still in residence. It is also famous for skiing, hiking, mountain and rock climbing.

I took a full-day tour, which took us around Romsdalsfjord, then along the Insfjord and the Tresfjord. We continued up the Skorge Valley to the Orskogfjellet mountain plateau. We then descended to the Storfjord and across a mountain pass to the Norddalsfjord. From the Storfjord one can enter a narrow arm and arrive at Geirangerfjrd, which we visited last week. The scenery is similar – The Romsdal Alps, the gateway to the “Westfjords” surround the beautiful fjords.

Along the way, we drove through several long tunnels. The Norwegians thrive on the challenges of engineering mountain roads and linking towns. More tunnels are in the works.

We learned that this Tresfjorden is often known as “Thaifjord” because, it seems that many Norwegian men find Norwegian women too demanding, so they “find” or send for the more submissive Thais!!!

We drove inland past stands of fast-growing spruce, which was introduced, from southeastern Norway to supplement the slow-growing native pines. We past many traditional farms, some with sod roofs. Once again, most of the farms are no longer used for farming, but they are hard to buy because the owners hold on to them and use them for holiday homes. There are some small holdings with very small herds of cows and a few sheep. Government subsidies help these farmers.

Once summer comes, the Norwegians take to the outdoors and shed most of their clothes! They really enjoy the limited amount of good weather. They hike, camp, fish, swim in cold streams, climb or just laze I the sun in skimpy outfits.

After a wonderful buffet in the Strawberry House (Jordbaerstova) were we feasted on smoked salmon, baked salmon, another kind of salmon, cold cuts, deviled eggs, meatballs, reindeer emince (yummy), reindeer sausage, salads and the most wonderful fresh strawberries from the owner’s fields with thick thick cream.

Next stop the Gudbrand Gorge with foaming waterfalls and then on to Stigrora and an added attraction – a cycle race UP the Trollstigen or troll ladder (also known as the Serpentine Rd., a series of hairpins turns winding up the cliff to Stigrora, more than 2800’ above sea level. Not for the faint of heart!! We had to wait for the end of the race and then we made our way DOWN the troll ladder, passing the magnificent Stigfossen waterfall. We had sweeping views of the valley below. A very exciting descent. At one point a ewe and her two lambs came rushing into the finish area - not knowing which way to go.

Our final stop was at the legendary Trollvall or Troll Wall, one of Europe’s sheerest rock faces. There are any legends about Trolls. Here there are three mountains, the Bishop, the Queen and the King. The Bishop wanted to marry the King and Queen, but they all stayed up too late and were turned to stone by the rays of the rising sun. Oh the things the sun does to creatures of the night!!!

This sheer rock face was a favorite with base jumpers until the number of accidents led the authorities to ban it. It is a very impressive forbidding place.

Back at the pier in Andalsnes, there was a group of young women in national costume singing traditional songs and collecting money for a trip to Italy.

Back on the ship, I went to the Senior Officers cocktail party and dinner at Willy’s table. We made plans to meet for drinks on the last evening. It was a fund evening all around. No disco tonight! We didn’t finish dinner until 11pm!!! Now I am posting blog and going to bed. We are rocking and rolling tonight on the North Sea….it should rock me to sleep!

Again, thanks to all for the comments. Danielle, a couple in our Cruise Critic group are from ---guess where---Beverly!!!

Note the troll roadsign - only one in Norway!!!!