Mumbai

Maximum City, to steal the title of a recent book. With 16 million people, it is the largest city in the world after Shanghai. If one includes the outer suburbs, the population grows to 19 million, making it the world’s fifth most populous metropolitan area. The numbers are mind-boggling. It is India’s financial center.

Mumbai is built on a series of seven islands, which were joined by landfill under the British forming a peninsula. Once part of the Ashoka kingdom, the lands passed to Hindu rulers until the Muslims of Gujerat took over in 1543. Only the Mahim Mosque remains of their 2-century rule. By the 16th century the Portuguese has established trading centers along the Arabian seacoast…as we have already seen in Cochin.
They gave the city its European name Bom Baia (good bay). Although the name was changed in the 20th century to that of a Hindu goddess, Mumbadevi, many people still call it Bombay.

More religions are practiced on a larger scale in India than in any other nation. This is evident in Mumbai with Hindus, Moslems, Jains, Buddhists, Sikhs, Jews, Christians, Zoroastrian (Parsees) and more.

Mumbai is the capital of the state of Maharashtra, he state of Marathi-speaking people, who, during the 20th century, fought for their linguistic rights, enlarging the official area.
The Hindu extremist party, Shiv Sena, is very active here and was responsible for the riots and atrocities of 1992-1993 against Muslims (viz the scene at the laundry basin in “Slumdog Millionaire”). Its leader, Bal Thackaray, makes no secret of his love for Hitler, and encourages his party’s thuggery. Organized crime is rife in the slums…again, this was shown in “Slumdog Millionaire”. The slums are world unto themselves…but there is no education for children. Furthermore, although the caste system is now illegal, it lingers. Traditions run deep in the country of contradictions.

There is also extreme wealth in India…photo below of Mukseh Ambani’s house. He is the fourth man in the world, according to Forbes. His house is under construction in the exclusive Malabar Hills section. His family consists of 6 people; there is a staff of 600, 20 stories of parking and 3 helipads. The building is 27 stories tall and hideous; it cost 1 billion dollars. It rises above the lovely old homes and apartment buildings like something from “Alien”. Talk about obscene wealth.

And then there’s Bollywood, which produces twice as many films as Hollywood for a much lager audience (3.6 billion worldwide) for a fraction of the cost. I was hoping for a glimpse of Shah Rukh Khan…but alas……..

Well, now for our day. Ross’ friend Dean picked us up in his chauffeured car. ☺ He had also arranged for another chauffeured car for the others (whom he knows very well –all from Auckland). Off we went for a tour of the city and its beautiful Raj buildings – mainly neo gothic Victorian: Victoria Station, the art gallery, telegraph office, university, high court buildings, public works building…..the glory that was the British Raj. Dean has been living here for almost a year, after being transferred from Singapore (his partner is in banking; he is an interior designer) and already knows the city very well…though he says every day is a discovery. This time, we didn’t see a single slum…just a bustling, vibrant, clean (yes!) city….with beautiful architecture, leafy streets and parks.

After our tour, we went to Dean’s apartment high in the Malabar Hills. Breathtaking views of the bay (or the Queen’s necklace as it is called….because of the effect of the lights at night) and Chowpatty Beach. The apartment is gorgeous – beautifully decorated with their previous furniture to which they have already added lots of Indian antiques. Dean has an amazing eye. Their housekeeper, Rosalie, served us tea, coffee and warmed hot-cross buns. Yum! From the apartment we could look down on all the mansions, the government guesthouse, the Jain temple, the US consulate and the governor’s complex. The area is delightful – lovely buildings, shady, tree-lined winding streets, parks…totally safe.

Then we set off again for more sightseeing and shopping (Dean knew all the right places for what we wanted), stopping for a lime juice at a little café and then ending up at the Taj Hotel, scene of the dreadful bombing in 08. Most of the repairs have been completed and the ballroom has just been reopened. Security is much stricter; everyone entering the hotel must go through a scanner and all bags are x-rayed. There is a huge police presence and the sidewalk around the entire block is chained off. The hotel is as magnificent as ever. We met up with the others as we had planned to have lunch there, but changed our minds. We split up, Jan came with Ross, Dean and me and we went to one of Dean’s favorite cafes. The he took us to an old warehouse where we perused 3 floors of antiques and clothes at Bunglow Eight. I was ready to book a container and ship a load of stuff back! Hahahah.

Then, one last stop at a very old department store, which has definitely seen better times – Ross, had been there on the last trip and it was his request to stop there – he calls it the “Are You Being Served” store. Almost!!!

And back to the ship I time for sailaway. Dean was absolutely delightful – a wonderful guide and host and so very patient! And very very talented, too. Ross is stopping in Mumbai to spend a week with Dean and Ben on his way home from Southampton. Lucky him!!

A quick drink and then a very light meal in the Lido. We were shattered – the heat was not bad…but we walked our feet off. I was asleep in 8pm and did not awaken until 6:15. I really needed those 10 hours.