DAY 3 STAVANGER

First, a little information about Norway. It is a hereditary constitutional monarchy. Norway has voted twice against joining the EU. The currency is the krone. Norway has traditionally been renowned for shipbuilding, fishing and timber. And, of course, those intrepid sailors and terrifying pillagers, the Vikings! And we mustn’t forget trolls!!! The discovery of oil in the North Sea has made Norway one of the world’s richest countries. Also, in relation to its GNP, Norway is the largest donor to international welfare and peace programs. Norway stretches 1752 miles and enjoys mild weather for a northern country, thanks to the Gulf Stream. Finally, Norway is a nation of readers; its 4.5 million people read more newspapers than any other nationality.

The ship docked at 8am right in the center of town. On the way in, the scenery was very pretty – rocky islands with evergreens and birches. It is a gorgeous day – brilliant blue sky and HOT. I left on my excursion at 8:30. We walked down the dock to a small, but fast, cruise boat and set off for Lysefjord. We passed Tingholmen, where King Olav Tryggvason held his national assembly in 998. We then passed through Hogsfjorden, zigging and zagging around islands and large salmon farms (which bring in billions of krone) before making a sharp left turn into Lysefjord. We proceeded about halfway down, passing sheer rock faces, up to 1,000’ high with trees clinging to fissures; islands with summer cottages; a few farms; mussel farms and an open patch of grass with three friendly goats, which were fed by the crew. The scenery was beautiful and dramatic. The fjords were formed during the ice ages, the most recent one about 10,000 years ago.

Halfway up the fjord, the boat docked at a little restaurant where we had coffee/tea and delicious waffles with sour cream and strawberry jam. Yum!
The waffles are a local delicacy.

At 11:30,we returned to the dock and I set out on a walking tour on my own. Stavanger was a typical fishing town until oil was discovered. Stavanger is now a prosperous city in an affluent region – the oil capital of the country. The old part of the city is absolutely charming – cobblestone streets, antique gas streetlamps, white clapboard houses with red tile roofs and lots of windows (winters are very dark up here). And, flowers, flowers, flowers everywhere – gardens, window boxes, planters, pots. This part was built mainly in the 17th and 18th centuries. In the summer, down by the harbor, the old fish market and other old buildings become open-air restaurants and playgrounds for celebration – musicians, street vendors etc……and currently the world beach volleyball championships. Beach? You ask! Well, they just import the sand and set it all up! Big outdoor concert arena is being put together right by the ship.

The newer part of town consists of typical European modern apartment blocks and shops interspersed with old buildings. There are many hills, so I really got a workout.

I returned to the ship for a late lunch with two of my tablemates and then relaxed until cocktail time.

Tonight I dined at the late seating as I was invited to join David Hamilton, the hotel manager, and his partner Kelly at his table. Last saw him on the QE2 last year. QE2 RTW-ers will remember him. He is absolutely charming ; so is Kelly. He went round the table recalling each guest’s Cunard connection – beyond just cruising. One couple’s son had been second officer on the QE2 and their daughter-in-law had been the international hotel, for example. It was a delightful evening, ending at 11pm. It is still light and I am not sleepy at all; sunset will be at 11:30. I think that this phenomenon is really going to affect me over the next week, especially as there will be no sunset for the next 7 days!!