DAY 8 NY-ALESUND

First of all thanks for all your comments. I love hearing from you and getting the local news. Sorry photos are slow in coming – we are in and out of Internet connections. Should be good from now on…so I will post photos for days 6 and 7.


There are four “settlements” on Spitsbergen, one of which is Longyearbyen (named for an American, Longyear, who discovered coal literally poking out of the ground and started a mining company). We are headed for Ny (pronounced new)-Alesund, research stations of 35-40 more-than-hearty souls. We are 1900! If there are any polar bears, they will run a mile when 1400 Brits storm the beach, haha. It is going to be cold and there is really nothing to do but hope that some wildlife will appear…although, according to t he captain, one couple hopes to have lunch there. Hahaha

Ny Alesund is on the southwest shore and we approach through Kongsfjorden. It was originally called Whales Bay by Hudson 1607 and later Deere Sound by Poole in 1610. It is usually ice-free between May and November and is one of the world’s northernmost settlements and is, in fact, the world’s northernmost functional public settlement.

Ny Alesund was founded as a coal-mining town; Roald Amundsen started his North Pole flight here in the Airship Norge; the Norwegian government took over the area in 1935 and made it a major fishery station until WWII when it once again became a coal producing area; after a major mining accident in 1962, the government decided that the location was too remote from rescue services and discontinued mining; in 1968 the Norwegian Polar institute opened a research base; in the 1980s and 90s other nations increased their scientific activities and turned Ny Alesund into an international Artic research base; in 2004 and 2008 respectively, China and India open their research stations.

At present, there are 10 countries that maintain research stations. Ny Alesund is now home to the new Arctic Marine Lab, which remains open year-round, whereas some of the other stations do not. There is an abundance of wildlife, particularly birds and especially the Arctic tern – more later. But also polar bears, Arctic foxes, whales, sales, walruses.

We approached Spitsbergen from the south, passing several islands and then entered Kongsfjrden and anchored of Ny Alesund. It was misty and raining….. 40F but, fortunately, no wind. We were surrounded by an Arctic landscape of dark mountains still partially covered in snow, glaciers and tundra. Some patches of green here and there. The research station consists of a handful of colorful buildings: labs, dormitories, a post office, a gift shop and a hotel. The Chinese center is flanked by two enormous Fu dogs. Most of the buildings are colorful, providing cheer in the Arctic night. There is a huge bust of Amundsen and his airship post still stands at the edge of the settlement. I took the very first tender at 8am with a handful of people. We were restricted to the gravel paths within the settlement; Cunard personnel were posted everywhere to make sure we did not wander out of town or walk on the fragile tundra.

The settlement is also a bird sanctuary and so there are strict rules about approaching their nests. It is obvious that we needed to respect the rules of this research station; we were also told the personnel would be watching us. Well, trouble started right away. A couple ran off over the tundra to get a closer look at an old mine locomotive. Wasn’t a minute before a very, very angry researcher came out and shooed them off. Then, as I turned right and continued down a “street”, I saw some terns attacking a group of people….and I mean attacking, pecking at their heads. Well, they were too close to the nests, which are mere depressions in the gravel about 2 feet fro the road. The nests were marked with tiny yellow flags only visible when one was virtually upon them. As I approached, I found one couple very close to the nest, the man had his hand up in the “come and perch position” (maybe he thought they were parrots!!!); the tern was screeching, and swooping; another man was screaming at them from afar in English to get away from the nest. Well, that was in vain – what language should he have used -----hahahahah, French of course. Well, at this point the tern was attacking me, too, but I literally grabbed the couple by the shoulders and pulled them away, swung them around and explained the situation. They were very contrite and upset…what did I get for my troubles, a big peck on the head and it HURT!!! But really, in nature, agitated aggressive behavior on the part of a creature means it is protecting its nest or its young. The photos tell the story!!

We had been told over and over to respect the tundra and the nesting sites. Signs everywhere indicate this. True, it is all in English, but the big red X-es on signs are international. I overheard one man opine – “I don’t see why we have to stick to the paths.” (Roll eyes!!) Another couple just set off over the tundra at the edge of town to approach some birds on a little lake. The obviously trampled the tiny alpine flowers and mosses which are so fragile. It was a fascinating visit, but I wonder about the advisability of cruise ships stopping there. I left after about 2 hours jus as the crowds came and the mist lifted. The stark beauty of the area was revealed – absolutely stunning. I went back to the ship to enjoy it in peace.

Quiet afternoon. Met some of the gang in the Queens Room for pre-dinner dancing. Old two-left-feet here just watched. Margaret and Michelle are very good. I did no go to the show after dinner – too tired. Worked on the blog and settled in for a good night’s sleep. I’ve got the hang of it now. Keep the curtains closed; do not be tempted even to peek outside; keep your back to the window and back into bed, put the mask on…and voila!!!