Phuket, Thailand

We anchored in Patong Bay off the island of Phuket at about 9:30 and set off immediately for Phang Nga Bay with its amazing limestone islands.

Phuket is Thailand’s largest island of a group, located off the west coast of mainland Thailand on the Andaman Sea. Formerly a producer of tin and rubber, Phuket now derives its income from tourism. Most residents are descendants of Chinese, Malay, Thai, Indonesian and India immigrants who came to work in the tine mines in the 19th century. Farmers, fishermen and pearl cultivators also plied their trades. The developers arrived in the 1970s and transformed the island. Although coconut and rubber plantations remain, Phuket is now known for its pretty beaches and luxurious resorts. Once sleepy fishing villages have become thriving commercial areas with every kind of activity imaginable.

Most people are aware of the deadly tsunami of December 26th, 2004. Patong Beach suffered the most damage. Since tourism is so important, the damage was quickly repaired and by February 2005, most resorts were back in business. Today, little remains of the damage.

The majority of the population is Buddhist with about 30% Muslin, mainly descendants of the sea-dwelling people.

We disembarked from the tenders onto a lovely white sandy beach. Beyond he main road of Patong beckoned with stalls, restaurants, small shops, discos, hawkers….not a bit attractive (more later). We drove through the town of Patong which had absolutely nothing of any historical interest….and any remotely interesting building was obscured by electrical wires – this is modern Asia at its best!!!

Once out of the town, we passed through rubber plantations with local pineapples along the ground. Can’t say the scenery was that attractive.

Once at our destination (after a 2-hour ride – these are the killers!), everything changed. We went to a resort on a river and had a wonderful Thai lunch and then boarded our boats for our trip into Phang Nga Bay located between Phuket and the mainland. Phang Nga is a shallow bay with 42 islands, comprising shallow marine waters and intertidal forested wetlands, with at least 28 species of mangrove; seagrass beds and coral reefs are also present. The islands are limestone cliffs with caves, and collapsed cave systems that have been eroded over 10,000 years. Phang Nga Bay Marine National Park was declared a protected site of international ecological significance in 2002. The most famous of the many islands in the bay is the so-called James Bond Island, a needle formed limestone rock in the sea, which featured in the movie The Man with the Golden Gun.

The islands are stunningly beautiful – like so many in traditional Chinese or Vietnamese paintings (Halong Bay in Vietnam is very similar and is now a World Heritage site). I took way too many photos….I’ll try to choose the best for this post. Sea kayaking is very popular here and families go out for the day, the ladies with their parasols.

On our way back, we made a stop at Koh Panyee (Sea Gypsy Island), a remarkable village, the whole of it built out over water on stilts and with a giant rock monolith guarding its rear. It is a village of fisherman who also provide restaurants and trinket shops for tourists. A very interesting experience, rather like the stilt fishing village in Penang only with a more distinct pong. We beat a hasty retreat as Ross dubbed it Cholera Alley!!!! As soon as the tourists leave, the community closes up its restaurants and trinket shops and transforms itself from a tourist trap into a quiet community of fishermen.
Back on the bus with a stop for shopping, this time high end jewelry and silks…been there done that 2 years ago…..we headed straight for the refreshment room and left no money!!!

The light was fading fast as we approached Patong where the very last tender awaited us – we were the last to board. The entire town was transformed into a fairyland of lights that hid the earlier ugliness. The restaurants beckoned with colored furniture and linens. People were strolling, checking the menus. The change was quite impressive, as was the view from the boat……a glittering half moon along the beach, flanked by mountains.

Tired and sticky (104 degrees plus humidity), we skipped dinner. I had room service and was asleep by 9 pm.