Tournon, Tain l'Hermitage

We awoke at berth in the little town of Tain l’Hermitage. On the opposite bank, we could see Tournon and its wonderful castle from our cabin. Both towns date from the Middle Ages. Tain is at the foot of the Hermitage Hills, on the left bank of the Rhône, where the Hermitage vineyards are located. The red wine is made fro the Syrah grape and the white from the Roussanne and Marsanne grapes. The St. Joseph vineyards are located up steep hills on the right bank, north and south of Tournon. Between 1956 and 1969, all the vineyards of this part of the Côtes du Rhône were awarded local AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée). As some of you know, these are some of my favorite red wines.

We set off after breakfast and crossed the wooden-paved, twisted cable suspension bridge, buildt by Marc Seguin in 1849 and visited Tournon, one of France’s oldest cities. The feudal castle, dating back to the 10th century, overlooks the river and the houses. One of France’s oldest lycées, the Gabriel Faure, founded in the 16t century is located here. Tournon is a pretty little town with tree-lined promenades – pollarded horse chestnuts and plane trees. Adjacent to the castle is the Collégiale St. Julien with a square bell tower and an elaborate Italianate façade. Inside, in the narthex, the walls still bear the original painted walls, ceilings and pillars….to remind us that all Medieval churches were once painted inside, top to bottom.

Then, we crossed the river to Tain and went to the Cellar Chapoutier whose name is written large on the adjacent hillside. We tasted three wines: A Croze L’Hermitage Petite Ruche white 2010, the same, but a 2009 red and then 2009 Deschants Saint-Joseph from the Ardèche side of the river.

I almost forgot that there is a very famous factory in Tain – the Valrhona chocolate factory. We get Valrhona choccies on our pillows every night and the ship’s boutique sells them.

This evening, we had our Epicurean Dinner. We started in the lounge with a special apéritif, Crémant de Bretagne with the peach liqueur we drank two days ago….both from the same vineyards. Then down to the dining room where we were served blond foie gras as an amuse-bouche, then truffle-filled mini ravioli in truffle oil sauce, next cream of celery soup, then we had a choice of fish or veal – I had the veal, a veal medaillon with veal kidneys; then dessert a Napolean garnished with strawberries, and finally the cheeses! I have eaten so many cheeses on this trip – all local. And to accompany all these dishes wonderful Côte du Rhône wines, white and red and dessert wines.

I almost forgot to mention that les Amis de l'Orgue et du Carillon of the little church in Tain rang the bells for us as we left.