Viviers

This morning we are in Viviers and we can see the magnificent church high on the hill. As a point of interest, we always dock upriver and then the boat turns around when we leave to go downriver. Founded in the 5th century in a sheltered canyon, Viviers was called Vivarium by the Romans, a food and supply area…hence the name. Then it was part of the Holy Roman Empire in the 2th and 13th century. In 1307 it was united with the kingdom of France. We walked down the 100-year old alley of Plane trees. The original trees were planted by Napoleon as shade for his troops. On the winding way up to the fortifications and cathedral, we passed houses from all centuries and reflecting all periods. The town is shabby in many areas, as there is little work in the area. Many homes are for sale and restoration work on Renaissance buildings has come to a halt. The government is trying to tempt people from Paris and Lyon, which are overcrowded, and will need to tempt industry and commerce in order to do this. The TGV allows people to live farther and farther from the big cities.

The views from the cathedral square are just spectacular – over the Rhône valley on one side and all the red tiled rooftops of the town – a jumble of all sizes and shapes, all connected to each other at all angles – and the enormous statues of the Virgin on one hill and St. Michael on the other.

We went into the old Cathedral of St. Vincent, a Romanesque construction started in the 12th century. During the religious wars, the roof of the nave was destroyed. The current nave was created in the 18h century. The paintings and tapestries are very beautiful. The vaults of the flamboyant Gothic choir are truly amazing.

We were treated to a wonderful organ concert by ValérY Imberon (Yes, there is a story behind the capital Y). He played pieces by Clérambault, Couperin and Lefébure-Wély. And for an encore – th, bordered by cedars of Lebanon, through the wonderful town…past tiny Medieval alleys whose buildings are held up by very old arches; roses spilling from balconies; crumbling Renaissance façades, towers, turres, tiny statues in unexpected places.

During the afternoon, we chose to cruise rather than go to a truffle farm and taste Châteauneuf du Pape, which I know and love! It was a gorgeous afternoon – we went through all sorts of locks, the deepest of which is 75 ft. deep. We passed the largest nuclear plant in Europe, next to which is a hydroelectric dam and a wind farm. Talk about alternative forms of energy. 80% of France’s electricity comes from nuclear power. We passed Montélimar, home of nougat and the Gorges de l'Ardèche with some amazing arêtes on the mountains. Here and there, we could see ruined castles and picturesque villages. We stopped at Châteauneuf du Pape to pick up the excursion-ers....beautiful castle on the hill.

In the evening, we were invited by Canadian friends to join their table of 10 to celebrate their 43rd wedding anniversary. The ship provided champagne. We felt very honored and it was a delightful evening. The dinner was the Provençale dinner. (All along, we have had regional dinners.) Pissaladière; garlic soup, mullet in bouillabaisse sauce with rouille….and more cheeses! Just magical…there's that word again.