Tauranga, New Zealand
February 21, 2013
We are in what Captain Cook aptly named the Bay of Plenty which is now the main kiwi (fruit, not the bird!) growing area. It is absolutely stunning. It is New Zealand's fastest growing city...having just received the official designation of city. It is 127 miles from Auckland...but that means 4 hours by car....no highways! This is the QE's maiden call, a substitute for Christchurch which remains in ruins from the earthquake.
The port of Tauranga is actually in Maunganui, named for the extinct volcano which protects the harbor. Maunganui was a sleepy holiday town with stunning beaches, a few houses and a lot of campgrounds. Now, the campgrounds are few. A beautiful boardwalk winds along the beaches and new apartment buildings and restaurants are in evidence. I could holiday here any time.
Well, I had made plans to spend the day with my beloved late cousin Roger's daughter, Emma, who lives about 40 minutes north in Katikati. I had not seen her for about 25 years! She has been out of the UK for most of that time...traveling the world, settling in Australia, then back to the UK briefly, then finally settling in New Zealand where she has lived for the last 13 years working in horticulture, currently in the kiwi industry. She is now a NZ citizen.
There she was at the gate to the dock. We both kind of stared at each other until we finally realized who we were! What a stunning young woman...tall, blonde, lithe and with some elegant tattoos. We drove around Mount Maunganui (we never got to Tauranga proper, which was fine) then parked and walked along the marine parade, eventually settling on a bench facing the beautiful surf beaches. We talked and talked about family, especially her Dad for about two hours, after which we went to a restaurant facing the beach and had the most delicious fish and chips. The fish was a local one: terakihi. We continued chatting over coffees and I showed Emma some photos on the iPad. I gave her a framed photo of her Dad who died in 2011. It was quite emotional and very difficult to say good-bye. Who knows when we will meet again.
P.S. This is also Hobbit country
Napier, New Zealand
February 22, 2013
Another maiden call for the QE. Napier, a port on Hawke's Bay, and its inland twin city, Hastings, is an important grape and wine producing area and is the largest producer of apples, pears and stone fruit in New Zealand. It is also the largest wool center in the Southern Hemisphere.
Established in 1839, Napier was leveled by an earthquake of 7.8 magnitude in February 1931. The land rose by up by 7 feet in some areas and, what once had been a lagoon filled in. Within two years, Napier was rebuilt in the Art Deco and Spanish Mission styles that were popular in the 1930s. Today, Napier is considered the Art Deco capital of the world. These Art Deco buildings are beautiful....one after the next along the streets.
After a drive through the city, we headed out, through vineyards and up into the mountains to the top of Te Mata, the sleeping giant. It was overcast when we arrived this morning. At the top of the peak, it was windy and rainy and positively cold. Of course, we have been going south, so it gets cooler every day. Yes south....closer to Antartica! We quickly took photos of the Tukituki River, the Heretaunga Valley and the twin cities and climbed back in the bus. The landscape was mainly rocks and yellow grass which reminded many of us of the San Francisco area.
Next stop, the Clifton Woolshed and the main reason for my choosing this excursion: animals! But first, a spot of tea with fresh scones, butter, cream and jam in. Little tea house in the shore, which is all gravel here.
And then to the woolshed. On the way in there were a couple of pens of time animals, one of which, in his own, pen, was an enormous, I mean enormous, black pig. Well, I just a out cell in love with him (photo below, dribbling milk after being fed by the owner). He loved being patted on his very wiry bristles. We watched the sheep dogs herd the sheep. I just love watching them. Then we watched some sheep shearing very close up. Probably the most interesting part of the procedure was to watch the owner subdue the sheep which, once subdued, does not move a muscle while being shorn. The man pulled the sheep out of its pen on its back, kind of hunched over. It was valiumized! Unbelievable! Then the shearer got to work. He started with the clippers, then used a hand cranked pair of clippers, very like those used in barbers' shops and finally electric clippers. A second sheep was brought out and the shearer set to work with the electric clippers as the bus driver timed him: 44 seconds! And I suspect that is not a record!
I bought something. Said I wasn't going to, but I did. But you won't see it on my wall. It is a lambskin hot water bottle cover in the shape of a sheep. How could I resist that!
Then it was back to the ship where, for the second day, we had drinks and dinner in the most underused and beautiful space on the ship, the Garden Lounge. It runs, unimpeded, the width of the ship and so it is wonderful for sailaway when it is too cool to be outside.
Wellington, New Zealand
February 23, 2013
Wellington, New Zealand's capital, is the world's southernmost capital. "The coolest little capital in the world" is situated at the southwestern tip of North Island on Cook Strait, which separates North and South Islands. A very attractive and vibrant city, it is built on many hills surrounding the late harbor which is the flooded crater of an extinct volcano. The first European settlers arrived in the 18th century, but the city did not flourish until around 1853. In 1865, the capital was transferred here from Auckland.
In addition to being the capital and a major port, Wellington is home to the national symphony and ballet, opera companies, theatres, art galleries and sporting venues and Pete Jackson's studio WETA..."Lord of the Rings", "Avatar", among others.
Our tour took us around the city, past the government buildings, one of which is known as the beehive for its unusual shape. There are many lovely old Victorian buildings that have been converted to apartments. There are also still a few charming small old houses cheek by jowl with modern buildings. Along Oriental Parade, we saw large homes of all styles seemingly glued to the sides of the hills. Some even have their own funiculars from the houses down to the garages on the Main Street. They all have magnificent views of the harbour and surrounding hills. We headed up these hills, winding our way past lovely homes, to the top of Mount Victoria at 643 feet. Incredible panoramic views of this beautiful city.
Next stop Lady Norwood Rose Garden and Begonia House. I have never seen such masses of tuberous begonias in my life. Stunning!
Next, the exquisite Old St. Paul's Cathedral, completed in 1866, which was nearly razed by developers! Of neo-Gothic style, the church is constructed entirely of local woods. he stained glass windows are beautiful...but I think it's glory is the timbered ceiling. I is magnificent.
Finally, we arrived at TePapa, or "the place", the national museum dedicated to the past, present and future of the country. We had a one hour guided tour. We could have stayed for days. It is an imaginative and innovative museum. Fascinating and exciting. Its extensive collection includes Maori artifacts, a Maori meeting house, which will soon be returned to its people, a preserved giant squid, a giant punamou stone (jade, used for tools and,later, jewelry), virtual reality areas recreating an earthquake experience, and much more.
Back to the ship for sailaway and farewell to New Zealand. I love this country and its friendly people. Too bad it is so far away!
After dinner, Amy and I went to the show: "Jazz, Blues and Rock 'n' Roll", a journey through the 20's, 50's and 60' of popular music. Terrific show...and, the costumes were sensational, as usual.
We now have five days at sea before we reach Tahiti, so I will not post until February 27. Meanwhile, enjoy the Oscars!
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