So today we started at the Topkapi Palace, a sprawling complex in Gulhane Park which occupies most of the headland overlooking the Sea of Marmara, the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn. The palace was the heart of the Turkish Empire for nearly 400 years, from 1465 to 1856. Sultan Mehmed I starter construction of the complex which insist of four main courtyards, each with a different function leading from the public to the private. The palace, whose population on exceeded 4000 people, functioned as a city within a city where the sultan lived in imperial seclusion, rarely venturing out. Silence was maintained within the inner courtyards and running water in the Divan, or Council chambers, ensured no eavesdropping. The complex grew over the centuries as each sultan added pavilions.
Through the massive Imperial Gate, one enters the first courtyard where the Janissaries, or bodyguards were stationed. Only dignitaries and foreign ambassadors were allowed through the Gate of Salutations into the second courtyard. From here paths radiate in all directions, to kitchens, imperial council chambers, the Tower of Justice, a treasury, an armory and the stables. Beyond the Gage of Felicity is the third courtyard, or the inner palace.....audience and privy chambers, library, schoolrooms, mosque, the imperial treasury and the harem with its warren of rooms and courtyards for the sultan's wives, mother, concubines, children, eunuchs. Here I visited the extraordinary treasury which contains thrones, ceremonial military garb and arms all encrusted with precious stones; magnificent headdresses and pendants; spoils of conquest from several countries; two 47 kilo gold candlesticks; one enormous diamond; bowls of uncut emeralds.....and of course, the so-called Topkapi dagger of film fame with its three enormous uncut emeralds. The entire collection is blinding in its magnificence.....but then so is every royal collection!!!!!
The fourth courtyard is the sanctum sanctorum of the sultan. Known as the Imperial Sofa, it contains various pavilions and kiosks used for prayer, breaking fasts or meditation, and the circumcision room.
(By now you will have figured out that sofas and divans were rooms, not furniture!!!!)
The last visit was the costume exhibit of the sultan's caftans and later, western uniforms.
The off to the Grand Bazaar, dating from the 15th century and which contains some 4000 shops. It is truly impressive....a dazzling array of jewelry, leather, carpets, tiles and much more. We had lunch in a typical restaurant inside the Bazaar...I had the eggplant puree, of course, and some delicious spicy kebab....followed by a Turkish coffee, of course. Turkish and Greek cuisine are very similar, but Turkish food is spicier. I found that I preferred the Turkish kefte and dolmasi....and everything they do with eggplant is divine. I even prefer the Turkish kadayif to the Greek baklava.
Next stop, the spice bazaar with it's wonderful colors and aromas. I bought two boxes of REAL Turkish delight...one for our table and one, shrink- wrapped, to bring home. Yum!
Then the Yerebatan Sarnici or Cistern, an amazing 1400 year old Byzantine underground construction supported by 336 enormous columns, built below one of the main squares for use during siege or drought. The columns and different are all different, having come from all parts of the Byzantine Empire. They were simply building materials, so much so that two Medusa head capitals were used as bases, one upside down, the other on it's side!!!! Now there is only about a foot of water in the cistern where carp await their feeding. It has been recently restored with appropriate lighting and music. Quite an eerily beautiful experience.
Marike treated me to roast chestnuts from a street vendor......more yum! We nibbled them as we walked along to catch the boat for a ride up the Bosphorus. It has been very windy for the past two days and it was cool up on deck, so we sat inside. We went along the Asian side as far as the second suspension bridge and then turned back along the European side. We saw the Dolmabahce Palace, built in 1853 by Sultan Abdul Mecit in what one can only call extravagant opulence. ( Double horseshoe Baccarat crystal staircase!!!!!!!) At the time, the Ottoman Empire was in decline and the building was financed with loans from foreign banks. Across the water, two sultans built two Baroque summer palaces in the 19rh century. What was most interesting was to see the various styles of Yalis, or villas along the shore, particularly on the Asian side. The oldest, a fairly large wooden house, painted a rust red known as Ottoman rose, dates to 1699 and is the oldest building on the shores of the Bosphorus. It looks more Russian than Turkish and the wooden clapboarding reminds me of New England. Since the 17th century, the yalis have become larger and more elaborate. Some of them can rival our mansions. While various building materials are used, some are still painted the traditional red. There are some brightly colored wooden houses in the old part of Istanbul, but they are restorations.
Alongside the dock where the ferry dropped us, by the Galata Bridge, were three unusual vessels bobbing in the water. Gaily decorated with gilt fish designs, they were dispensing fried mackerel and onion sandwiches to patrons at a restaurant on the do k. The cooks had no problem even when he bobbing was at a sharp angle. Fascinating.
And then it was time to sash goodbye to Istanbul. I loved every minute. I'd love to come back....there is so much more to see.
We sailed away at 8 pm and the captain swung the ship around 360 degrees for one last amazing look! The first Bosphorus bridge was playing it's computerized light show. Then we sailed back down the Bosphorus past the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sophia and the Topkapi, all beautifully illuminated. What a sight!!!!!!
No comments:
Post a Comment