Daniela took me up the campanile for panoramic views of Venice. It was so clear we could see all the way to the snow-capped Dolomites. As I turned toward the east, what do I see but the Queen Victoria coming into the lagoon on a serpentine course....she passed within meters of the Piazza. What a sight!
We then set off to explore the various backs streets and campos (squares) with their wells. Santa Zacaria, Santa Maria Formosa, both in the Castello Sestière are typical of the way Venice e developed. Off the campo Santa Maria Formosa, we went to a mask factory which was fascinating. The real masks are made of papier mâché. I bought a small one to hang on the wall.
We continues toward the Rialto area, passing through part of the Cannareggio to the campo San Zanipolo, a contraction of Giovanni and Polo in local dialect. The 13th basilica of Santi Giovanni and Polo dominates the square. Then on to the 15th century church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli. Churches, basilicas and campaniles dominate the skyline; Venetians were in the habit of building them each time they escaped the plague.
We then crosses the Grand Canal on the Rialto Bridge, which is lined with tourist shops and, unfortunately, marred with graffiti. Watching the bustle of the water traffic in every direction and made up of every sort of boat was fascinating. We walked along the riva to have a close look at some of the extraordinary palazzos, notably the Ca' D'Oro, so-called because it's carvings were once gilded. It is considered the quintessential example of Venetian Gothic architecture. There are, however, many other beautiful palazzos along the Grand Canal.
We arrived at the Rialto market just before it closed. What a visual delight....all the fruit and vegetables, all labeled with their origin. And the fish market, in the Campo della Pescaria, with piles of squid, cuttlefish, octopus, all kinds of shrimp, crab, branzini, sardines.....and on and yummy on.
For lunch, Daniela chose a traditional Venetian restaurant where I could eat cuttlefish in its own ink. Sepia in tecia. Eat your heart out, Montalbano! Served with polenta, it was delicious. I had a glass of Prosecco, the regional specialty, and some "S" cookies, so called after the shape of the Grand Canal.
After lunch, we crossed the Rialto Bridge again and made our way back to San Marco. We stopped at La Fenice the house but could not visit because rehearsal was in progress. "Of what?", I asked. "Don Giovanni". Well, I bought a ticket then and there for the next night.
We devoted the rest of the afternoon to the Doges Palace, the 15th to 16th century Byzantine/Gothic/Renaissance building on the piazza San Marco, which housed various offices. There is very little in the way of furniture in the palace because each doge had to bring his own furniture which was returned to his family upon his death. The various chambers are filled with extraordinary paintings and frescoes, mainly Tintoretto and Veronese, but two beautiful Titians also. And gold, gold, gold!!! The doges loved gold and dressed in gold. All the paintings were framed in ornate gilt frames.
We visited the prisons and crossed the Bridge of Sighs, of course. From the outside, only part of the bridge is visible, since restoration work is In progress....a never-ending process here. I bid Daniela goodbye after 8 wonderful hours in La Serenissima drinking in the glorious sights and the history of this amazing city. There is so much more to tell, but not here!
We all met in the bar at the Daniele, then proceeded to Harrys Bar for more for more drinks. My Bellini was served in a oversize shot glass. What a rip-off! Four drinks......100 €. Another drink episode for a good laugh!!! Yes, we knew it was touristy, but we had to find out!!!! I must say, though, they pour some pretty strong drinks. A vodka on the rocks turned out to be a triple.
After a lovely dinner of gnocchi with prawns and mushrooms, it was time for bed!
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