Paihia and Russell, Bay of Island, New Zealand

Paihia is where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed between the Maoris and the British in 1840. The Treaty House and the grounds are a gathering point each February 6, Waitangi Day. This Treaty is considered New Zealand’s founding document. Although, all of the 50 Maori chiefs signed the document, there were two versions, one in Maori and one in English, which led to controversy, which continues to this day. Wars ensued and internal strife among the tribes led to the government being able to take over most of the land. The Treaty Grounds are part of the Waitangi National Trust and consist of a Maori Meeting House, the Treaty House itself and a shed containing wakas, the largest of which needed 103 warriors to paddle it, plus a lovely café Waikokopu, which is Norma and Phyll’s haunt for elevenses. It’s on a little pond with ducks and eels – and tuis singing all around, but hard to see. Had a wonderful cappuccino and an avocado and corn muffin. Yum!

Norm and Phyll had some unexpected business to attend to, so they dropped me at the ferry and I went over to Russell, across the bay. Russell was the first capital of NZ - later Auckland was the capital and then Wellington. It was also known as the hell-hole of the Pacific in the early 1800s…..a shore station for whalers with nothing but brothels and bars. A glorious day for an excursion. I poked around the tiny town of historic buildings, the oldest Anglican Church in NZ, and expensive holiday homes. Had a bowl of local fish chowder in a bayside restaurant, then took a mini-bus tour around the area. Beautiful beaches and views from the many hills. Walked up to the flagstaff on Flagstaff Hill where chief Hone Heke cut down the British shipping signal flagpole in a gesture of rebellion. Evidently it has been cut down many times. In modern times, the Bay became a magnet for sailors and recreational fisherman, including Zane Grey who helped establish the area as a game fishing center.

Took the slow ferry back and then drove around the area with Phyllis who showed me their various homes and business they owned before retiring. At one point, they had a farm and raised show horses. The pahutukawas are coming into bloom – here’s one almost in full bloom. They are also called New Zealand Christmas trees. One can only imagine what it is like when they are all in full bloom.



This is the view from Norm and Phyll's house.