May 11, New Orleans

What a day!  We started out with brunch at Buffa's...a joint in the corner of Burgndy and Esplanade...so one block's walk!  The band du jour was "Some Like it Hot".  Originally all female, but now only  half so. In addition, people come and go in New Orleans tradition.  A second clarinetist walked in stage...then a  fiddler...then a terrific singer.  Not a word is said...everyone just blends beautifully.  This group plays grad jazz, as traditional jazz is called, so you can imagine what fun it was.  The trombone player cum piano player cum chanteuse speaks French...she came by our table, as John knows the group.  We spoke a while and she told me she would sing her translation of "All of me".  She also,sang "La Vie en Rose" for John.  JK made it home in time to join us.  I had crawfish fritters, salad and a biscuit and two bloody Marys, southern style, i.e., spicy and with an okra pod for garnish!

As we left, the skies opened up and we got soaked just going the one block.  Nap time, after which we went into the park next door for the Vieux Carré Property Owners Association Mother's Day picnic, anchored by a wonderful band, all in white uniforms.  JK and John made a lovely collation of cold shrimp,  white and green asparagus, hard boiled eggs, cheddar, Humboldt fog, cherries...le tout washed down with......seltzer!  We had champagne on ice, but had had enough to drink at brunch.

When it was over, we packed up, stashed the food,and set off for Ernie K Doe's Mother In Law Lounge (now owned by Kermit Ruffins).  I hope ya'll remember Ernie K Doe!  Anyway, it is a real joint in Treme. One approaches the trash-strewn corner, past a giant pot of something good simmering and is hailed by a platinum wigged expansive African-American lady flogging jello shots!  She gives John a big hug...he didn't know her.  We go in and are hit up for a cover charge and get our wrists stamped.  (As John said later, "didn't see no brothers being hit up for a cover charge."  LOL). Front bar area with two huge TV screens was populated by African Americans, as was the rear grassy area with a tiki bar and monster roaster on wheels.  Something smelled good!  The white folk were in the back room where the Treme Brass Band was playing.  They were wonderful...all the great classics including one of my all time favorites.....St. James Infirmary.  Turns out what was cooking was oxtails and they were included in the cover!  I normally love them, but I could not eat another thing.  I have been eating and drinking for 6 days!   I had been wanting to go there for a long time and it was worth it!  I loved the experience.

There is never enough time for all the good music in NOLA.  Jazzfest ended the weekend before last and some of the greats were there.

Bye bye New Orleans....John and JK's patio.