Sunday, July 20, 2014

Paris, July 20, 2014

Spent the afternoon "cruising" on the Canal St. Martin, which links the Canal de l'Ourcq to the Seine.  It is one of my favorite outings....the last time I did it was in 2000 with my parents, my aunt and Jonathan. We took a taxi to the Parc de la Villette, way up in the 19th arrondissement....just before Paris ends at the Bd. Périphérique.  We embarked at 2pm and made our way south through two sets of double locks and one single lock to the Seine, some 27m. lower.  We wended our way under lovely  bridges through the 19th and the 10th mainly, and then the 11th when we entered the Seine, which was very dramatic as we passed between the Ile St. Louis and the Ile de la Cité.  We could see all the great Parisian icons: Notre Dame, la Conciergerie, l'Hôtel de Ville, le Louvre, l'Institut de France, le Palais de Justice, le Grand Palais, la Tour Eiffel! L'Insitut du Monde Arabe and more!  Not forgetting all the wonderful bridges!   We also passed through two tunnels along the way.

Construction of the canal was ordered by Napoleon in 1802, in order to create an artificial waterway for supplying Paris with fresh water to support a growing population and to help avoid diseases such as dysentery and cholera.  At that time, the ordinary citizen was allowed one liter of fresh water a day.  The upper classes if course, got more.  So even after the Revolution, disparities continued...of course!

The canal was dug from 1802 to 1825, funded by a new tax on wine. The canal was also used to supply Paris with food (grain), building materials, and other goods, carried on canal boats. Two ports were created in Paris on the canal to unload the boats: the Port de l'Arsenal and the Bassin de la Villette.

By the 1960s, traffic had dwindled to a trickle and the canal narrowly escaped being filled in and paved over for a highway. Today, the canal is covered for a portion of its life: from Rue du Faubourg du Temple to the Place de la Basille.

Many areas had once been villages in the countryside.  The Hôpital St. Louis, pictured below, was built in the countryside...it still functions andis now a world-renowed dermatology hospital.  We passed old flour and sugar warehouses, the last remaining paper factory in Paris, a building materials warehouse currently being transformed into a restaursnt, the site of the great gallows, Montfaucon, where 60 people could be hanged at one time...two-tiered, the lower for the plebs, the upper for the nobles, which included many Finance Ministers!  So much history along the way.

There is also an amazing recreation area where the canal widens.  The area is cordoned off with buoys.  Water polo, paddle boats, kayaks, waterzorbing balls...everyone having a great time.  The area is run by Paris Plage, which is quite literally a beach on the banks of the Seine near the Hôtel de Villette.  It has just opened formthe summer and we had a very good look at it.  Sand, including enough for sand castles, beach chairs, umbrellas....the real deal for the citizens.

Part of the canal is dredged every eight years.  This improves the water quality, so much so that where there were only only two kinds of fish, now there are 30.  This is also the time when people find their missing bicycles, fridges, sofas, etc. and the police wrap up cold cases.  LOL

This is the only canal in France that belongs to a city, not the state.

These are all my photos, BEN!

As we set off.

Cafe in recreation area.


Recreation area.
Street scene.


One of many picturesque bridges over the canal.

Lockkeeper's cottage.


Iconic hotel of novel and film fame.


Hôpital St. Louis 


Colonne de Juillet, Place de la Bastille

L'Arsenal

Notre Dame


(Ken's photo of Notre Dame taken from St. Julien le Pauvre the other night.)


Conciergerie


Le Vert Galant (Statue of Henri IV)


L'Institut de France and Le Pont des Arts (with all the love locks!)


Musée d'Orsay


Statue of Voltaire near le Quai Voltaire

We arrived at the Musée d'Orsay two and a half hours later and we walked home.  

On the way, we saw games areas set up on paved areas along the river...badminton and other games with their lines all neatly painted.  The quais, which are about 5 lanes wide, now have bus lanes, taxi lanes, bicycle lanes and the original sidewalks.  Also bike paths along the sidewalks.  All clearly marked.  Paris has city bikes just like all the big cities.  Of course, Paris has many wide open spaces to  provide such services.  But, clearly, Paris caters to the leisure requirements if its citizens.

After a nice rest, we went to dinner at Le Bonaparte...across from St. Germain des Près.  Ken treated me to an early birthday dinner.  It was delightful.  Afterwards, we got Berthillon ice cream from the little stand across the street and took it home.

Note.  Graffiti is still a huge problem.  It is everywhere....even on magnificent wooden doors of posh buildings in posh areas. Some is "artistic", most are just scrawls.














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